旅游后遗症

听着《遇上你是我的缘》，思绪回到了那快活的旅程，方才惊觉我已经回来了2个月。真不敢相信我真的去过了，仿佛作了一场美丽的梦，照片里头的真的是我吗？

每天吃饱就上网、认识新朋友、聊天、做攻略；然后睡个懒觉。睡醒后又是一连串的惊喜，每天都过得很快活。呵呵，这种日子谁不喜欢？

富师傅还安好吗？该是忙着载送客人吧~ 安妮现在越南和姐姐旅行着，遗失的信用卡该补发了吧？还有元外、土豆、天堂旅社的老板等等人，就这样掠过了脑海。第一次看到雪景、雪山、沙漠、骆驼、敦煌壁画、九寨沟仙景、第一次自己坐火车、走广州的情景，还历历在目。

或许这种心情人一生只能有一次，下一次该又是不同的体会了吧？

两位超级棒的驴友写的部落：
http://www.david-angel.net/blog/

中国之旅-西北篇（18/4/2009）

姑婆房的摆设。清代珠江三角洲地区有些妇女为反对家庭包办婚姻，通过“梳起”仪式，立志终身不嫁。民间称这些妇女为自梳女，又称为“姑婆”。

凌晨5点半，火车到达广州，我带着满怀期待的心情踏出了车站。来到了咨询柜台后，值任的柜台小姐很友善地告诉我要搭地铁到公元前站，然后转地铁去芳春站，下车后步行到长堤路的江畔青年旅舍。我在地铁站等了半小时，第一趟地铁终于开车了！

上了地铁，才发现广州很像台北，地铁几乎涵盖所有市区内重要的地区和景点，非常方便！一个人探路的感觉也蛮好玩的，只是昨晚睡得不好，我累得几乎是拖着身体走的。走在陆居路和长堤路时，我几乎感觉自己回到了马来西亚，可以看到老人家在公园散步打太极，小贩操着流利的广东话叫卖，还有一些出来喝早茶的人。

到了江畔青旅，柜台还没有开，我就乘机和做早餐的服务员聊了起来。他介绍了附近的几个景点及可以如何步行过去。吃完自备的早餐后，柜台小姐上班了，我便到柜台登记，然后进去房间放行李。房间住满了人（都是洋人），但都在睡觉。我放下背包后轻手轻脚地冲了个凉，拿了些干粮就出门了。临走时还是吵醒了隔壁床的一个土耳其人，简单的聊了几句。原来，这里大多数的住客都是冲着广州博览会来的，我真是来“对”了时间！

我先到了附近的芳村车站搭地铁到陈家祠，参观了这个具有历史价值的博物馆。据说在文革时期，这里曾经遭遇过红卫兵的无情毁坏，所幸新华印刷厂搬进这里运作，才把部分的文物和建筑保存下来。这里的许多手工艺品都堪称世界级的，让我看得如痴如醉。可能今天是星期六吧，有很多中学生到这里来参观。听他们说着广东话，就好像看到了以前自己中学时的模样，对周遭事物总是好奇万分。


每伞门都有精美的图案和本身的典故




这座雕塑名为业精于勤、荒于嬉。


打飞机原来还有这个意思




陈家祠里有许多精美的手工艺品，可以用叹为观止来形容。参观过陈家祠，我沿着康王路一直走，走到了上下九步行街。途中还经过一条专门卖玉器的街，竟然可以听到有人在说福建话，呵呵~原本打算找华林寺，兜了一圈却找不着，老天却在这时下起绵绵细雨了，还是快点走为妙。


到了上下九，竟然让我发现这档食物！饥饿难当的我当然不会放过了。在买珍珠奶茶的时候，卖茶的小姐给了我一张折扣卡，我退回给他说我是马来西亚人，没机会再用。她很惊讶我的华语说得那么流利，而且还会说广东话，呵呵。


老天还是不给脸，我只好冒着雨在上下九漫步了。这里有很多商店，感觉很像台北的士林夜市，我按着地址摸索到了传说中的新华书局。中国的书店给我一种压迫感，因为卖的书都比较严肃（相对台湾的书店），而且包装也比较朴素。我找到了一本《秦殇》，看起来好像不错，掂量了许久还是用剩下不多的人民币买下了。最多晚餐挨饿咯。



后来雨越下越大，我只好打退堂鼓，搭地铁回旅舍去了。由于已经离开黄沙地铁站一段路程，懒惰再走回头路，我就在附近码头搭船回去芳村码头了。

听西宁的小飞说，如果你要作弄人的话，最好的方法是把他的电话号码到处写，然后加上“办证”两字，包管他应付不暇。在广州又看到“办证”了，开来中国办假证还真方便！

路上还遇到一个西装笔挺的非洲黑人跟我问路，说要到623路去，想不到我这个旅客还能帮人呢！到了码头，等了近半小时才有船上，我们都冒着雨冲上船了。上了船，突然看到工作人员把门关上了，其他走得比较慢的船客来不及下船，就破口大骂。那位工作人员也不甘心，就对骂起来了。嘿，想不到这里用的粗话还真的跟马来西亚一模一样。

在雨天乘船渡过珠江。

回到旅舍睡了1个多小时，就遇到刚从广州博览会回来的土耳其人，和刚入住的一位墨西哥人。外面还是下着雨，我就一直上网到雨停为止，这时已经是5点半了。我到附近的餐馆吃了一顿超饱的晚餐，然后就搭地铁到黄沙站，沿着珠江畔步行。

这碗饭让我饱到想吐，才6元人民币！

我沿着623路走到人民桥，发现雨又开始下了，还好这次我有带伞出门。过了桥后，天色开始暗了，我也开始明白这一带为什么被称为广州的拍拖胜地。晚上的珠江畔的确是景色宜人，凉风徐徐，走在这里感觉特别浪漫舒适。

我沿着滨江西路漫步，走过解放大桥，再沿着沿江西路和沙面公园走，共走了两个小时。一路上看到许多情侣在例行公事、窃窃细语和打情骂俏，也看到全家出动散步的，更有搀着老母亲的手缓缓走动的女生。虽然觉得很累，但我还是很享受这段路程，它让我深刻感受到了广州这座城市的人文气息。

回到芳村车站，我到了陆居路附近的一件甜品店叫了“姜撞奶”。开始我还以为是什么新鲜食物，原来就是豆腐花，只不过比马来西亚的豆腐花香得多。吃完了甜品，我又沿着长堤路漫步，在这里看珠江又是另一番滋味。

晚上9点半，我拖着疲累不堪的身体回到旅舍，冲了凉就到头大睡了。

中国之旅-西北篇（17/4/2009）

一个人坐火车是超级西北无聊的事情。我终于明白为什么Annike说iPod是她的最爱，如果iPod不见了，她愿意花任何代价让家人买一个新的寄给她。我真后悔没有多放几首歌在电话里，倒是放了很多百家讲坛的讲座。

在车厢里呆得要发霉了，我狠下心来花钱去吃又贵又不好吃的火车餐，只为了静静享受那窗外的景色，也看看服务员们在打情骂俏。这一顿早餐吃得特别久。

回到车厢时，突然听到一个染金发的男生用悲伤的歌声唱出了张雨生的《大海》，“如果大海能够，换回曾经的爱，就让我用一生等待~~”。唱得那么伤心，该是受到什么情伤吧？

中国之旅-西北篇（16/4/2009）

嫣还是病倒了，好像是气喘病发。我们简单的吃了一顿早餐，就搭车去附近的医院了。虽然医院可不是我们计划的要到的景点，但是能参观中国的医院，也算是旅途的一种特殊经历吧。

成 都的医院给我一种人手分配不均的感觉。一边厢，门诊医生没有护士帮忙，病人得自行排队候诊，有可能还会因为不满问诊的秩序先后而吵架。另一边厢，我却看 到几个护士悠闲地坐着无所事事。听嫣说医生也做不了什么，因为气喘需要看病历才能对症下药，现在医生只能开一些急救的药而已。

回到了旅 舍，稍作休息，我们就到附近的参观吃了一顿麻辣的午餐，然后又到一件高级茶馆享受品茶之乐。成都不愧是茶馆文化的重镇，这里似乎到处都能找到让你满意的 茶，而且名字多的让行外汉的我摸不着头脑。我们也不知道什么茶好喝，所以就看名字随便点了。一个幽静的下午，一杯让人心醉的好茶，三两个知心好友敞开心地 畅谈，时间过得特别快。

回到旅舍，嫣和鹏就开始收拾行李准备离开，到攀枝花去了。一起履行了16天，终于到了说再见的时候，心里有点不舍，却也很期待他们能把接下来旅途中所见所闻与我分享。目送他们离开后，我花了1个小时上网找寻资料，安排了接下来的行程，也向江畔青旅订下了在广州的房间。

晚餐前，我遇到了我们的室友泽沐，原来他也是晚上要去车站搭车，我们结伴同行了。我独自到了旅舍附近的小巷散步，好好感受一下这一个据称是“最适合人类居住的地方”。这里的人，快乐吗？

我们820pm离开旅舍，才发现搭巴士到车站需要40分钟，泽沐肯定赶不上9点的火车了。于是我们叫了一辆计程车。送走了泽沐，我在车站附近闲逛了一个小时才入站，上了到广州的火车。一个人的感觉也不错，只是不知道在火车要怎么过。还好已经晚了，先睡个觉吧！

中国之旅-西北篇（15/4/2009）

病倒了的嫣，乖乖在旅舍养病。


我们居住的青年旅舍。
我们在早上10点左右出发，很快的就认识了车上的另外4位旅客。开始的时候大家都对同车的唯一洋人--Mike很感兴趣，可是他话一说开就听不了了。结果接近两个小时的车程我就跟他聊得不亦乐乎。他是个瑞典人，哲学系毕业生，到过19个国家旅行，这次旅行够了就回去继续5年心理学；读书对他来说只是兴趣。

我们从个人兴趣、哲学、东西方学生的学习态度、人生规划等，再聊到福利国家的好坏、旅途中的趣闻等。他对英国的福利政策特别反感，因为政府会给单身母亲房子，结果造成很多女生故意生孩子只为了要房子。接着我们有聊到各国的文化差异，他说瑞典人常常被西欧人误会为无礼，因为他们常年在冰天雪地下生活，说话也尽量简短以免消耗热量。结果本来应该说：“麻烦您给我一杯茶”，瑞典人往往只会说：”一杯茶“。

突然间我觉得我遇到了一个奇人，因为他不但长相奇特，衣着怪异，而且见闻广阔，跟他聊天也是一大享受。只是我本来就睡眠不足，原想在路途上睡觉的如意算盘也被打破了。




到了乐山大佛入口处，我自告奋勇地上前买票，还出示了我的学生证。嘿，又一次成功获得半价优待了！开始的时候我们都走在一起，装成别人的团队听导游免费讲解。Mike听不懂华语，自己走开了，我们则跟着别人的团队走。





来到了乐山大佛的头顶旁，我们看到许多游客在悬空伸手“触摸”大佛的脸部各个部位，原来不同的部位代表心中不同的祈求。这时，我突然发现那位在九寨沟天堂青旅遇到的泰国人，原来也跟我们一样到了乐山大佛参观！我们沿着梯级走下去，到了乐山大佛脚底下。





精美的雕塑，把我们都看呆了，尤其是大佛的脸部更是栩栩如生。他们是怎样做到的？远处有几艘船经过，那是付费从江上观赏大佛的人们。








我们大概走了2个多小时才回到入口处，发现走散了的沐泽和艺浩已经在等待我们了。这时司机在点人数，发现到最难找的Mike不见了！我们尝试联络旅舍却没有人懂他的电话，也不知道他是去坐船了，等不及自己走了，还是仍然在乐山大佛里头。在等待的过程中，我们发现了这则新闻，才明白为什么在中国加气站是不允许乘客进入的。



等了近半小时，才看到Mike带着一个洋妞兴高采烈的走出来，天啊！他尝试说服司机多载一个人回去成都，但司机坚决不愿冒险超载，那位洋妞只好自己搭巴士回去了。这时，车里的几个乘客都应该很不爽他吧。路上我们又继续为完的话题，但只谈了半小时，他就“识趣地”睡着了，我也终于得到片刻的安宁，呵呵。


回到旅舍，我们赶紧跟Mike拍张照留念。他长得想不想耶稣？



我、鹏和嫣到了附近的一件餐馆吃串串烧，但我们都不敢尝试成都著名的麻辣锅，因为这十多天我们吃太多麻辣食物了。虽然如此，这一餐我们仍然是吃得津津有味，大块朵颐。吃着吃着，我们就聊了起来。我突然间感觉像决堤的江河，话题源源不绝，就像以前刚认识嫣的时候那样。仔细想想，我们也真的好几年没有这样畅谈了，每次见面都是匆匆忙忙的，想不到就在这样的场合下寻回了这种感觉。能够有你们这样的朋友，夫复何求？

这一顿吃得很饱，饱在肚里，暖在心里。

中国之旅-西北篇（14/4/2009）

嫣和鹏的午餐 Sam and David is eating this for lunch

昨天虽然走了一整天，感觉很累，却一直睡不好，早上很早就起床了。我轻手轻脚爬下床，刷了牙，洗了澡后，天开始发白了。这时，Annike也醒了。
Although I am very tired and drunk some wine, but still can't sleep well, so I wake up early. I go down from bed slowly to avoid waking up Annike, then brushed my teeth and take a short bath. The morning is approaching, and Annike is awake as well.

我们准备好后，就下楼去会合鹏和嫣，然后搭德士去车站（步行要40分钟，没力气走了~）。接下来的我们又从原路返回江油，再从江油回去成都了。途中Annike一直重复温习了我之前教过的几句中文，有些乘客还好奇的望过来，怎么有个西方人在说中文。
We meet up with Sam and David after packing our luggage, then take a taxi to the bus station. (We simply can't afford to walk another 40 minites, haha..)

Annike is practicing the Mandarin words that she learn from me for the past few days, some of the passengers look at her curiously, how come there is a westerner speaking Mandarin?

中途，司机在平武停下车吃午饭，鹏和嫣没有下车。我和Annike饿得不得了，叫了些菜，狼吞虎咽的吃了起来。感觉上就像平时在马来西亚坐长途巴士时在中途站吃饭一样。这时才发现Annike握筷子总握住最上端，我就笑着对她说，“中国人有个迷信，如果女生筷子握得越上端，则表示将来嫁得越远。”“那我要嫁到很远很远了，哈哈~。”
We stop at Pin Wu for lunch, but Sam and David never come down. Annike and I are very hungry, so we quickly find a place and order the food, and start eating. I observed that Annike is holding her chopstick near the edge, so I told her,"Chinese believed that if a gal hold the chopstick near the edge, means she will be marry and live far from her family in future." "Then I must be very far from my family after marry, haha~~."

接着我们又谈到别人斟茶时我们需要用手指轻敲桌子表示感谢，这是有个典故的。那是乾隆下江南时，属下为了要向他叩头，但又不能暴露他是皇帝的身份，就用手指代替叩头动作，渐渐演变成轻巧桌子了。这个故事得到满族人富师傅的应证，应该是真的吧！
We also talk about the story of Qian Long Emperor visiting South of China few hundred years ago. He likes to pretend to be a layman while visiting his territories, so his followers cannot kneel on him in front of the public. In the end, whenever Qian Long Emperor pour tea on his followers' cup, they kneel on him using the fingers. This turn out to be a common practice among Chinese, where the younger one will knock the table gently with two fingers when the elder one pour tea to them.

接下来又是几个小时沉闷的旅途，到达成都时已经是6点半了。一下巴士，我们就帮Annike栏了一辆德士，确保司机明白旅舍地点，价格也公道后，送她走了。接着我们等了好久都揽不到德士，就有人跑过来说这是高峰期很难揽到德士的，他愿意30元送我们到旅舍。有了在西宁的经验，我们不再轻易相信这些话了，就换了几个点等。终于，我们领悟了，这里搭德士要抢的，斯文的排队就只有干等的份。于是我也豁出去了，德士一到我就一个箭步冲上去，干净利落的打开车门坐下去，然后招呼鹏和嫣。我仿佛看到其他人羡慕的眼光，这是我生平第一次抢德士，哈哈，很有满足感！
We reached Cheng Du around 630pm. We helped Annike to get a taxi, and make sure the driver understand where she wants to go. After that, we try to get our own taxi but end up waiting for a long time. There are 2 persons trying to lobby us to take their car (30 yuan per trip), with the reason that it is peak hour now, very hard to get a taxi. We already have the experience in Xi Ning (pay 30 yuan for 6 yuan trip), so we are not going to be cheated again! We tried to wait at several spots, and finally found that we will not get a taxi if we line up properly following the queue. People here need to "fight" for taxi! So when I see the next taxi, I run towards it and open the door without hesitation, the taxi is mine now! I can see other people looking at me with envying eyes, haha....

坐在成都的德士上，我感觉我想在玩Need for Speed一样，司机可以在双线超车，然后来个急拐弯，还可以完全不顾交通规者地横冲直闯，好几次差点撞倒路上的脚踏车和行人。后来才知道，原来这里的司机都是这样的！大家也好像习惯了，没有人埋怨。终于，我们还是安全到达了四号工厂青年旅舍。
I have a feeling that I am playing "Need For Speed" now, because the driver is driving like a skillful mad man! He can overtake the car without paying attention to the cars beside, and make a sharp turn suddenly, nearly knock on the passengers on the road! Well, I just find out that there are many drivers driving in this way in Cheng Du... Finally, we reached The Loft Hostel safely.


一进入旅舍，真有点错觉我们是到了什么欧美国家的旅舍，怎么都是西方人？我们住的是四人间，另一位同房的泽沐是一位即将毕业的大众传播系学生，在毕业前进行了一次长时间的旅游。听说他走了40多天，接下来还会去西安、西宁、敦煌一带，我们马上介绍了西凉驿给他，也告诉了他若要出租车可以找富师傅。接着，我们就以最快的速度到附近的餐馆医肚子了。
When I first entered the hostel, I thought that this is an European hostel, there are simply so many westerners here! We are sharing a room with a local traveller, Zhe Mu. He is a final year mass communication student, already travelled for 40 days in China. Since he will be going to Xi Ning soon, we share with him our experiece and introduce him to our driver, Fu.

突然间觉得有点奇怪，因为Annike不在了，可以不用忙着翻译了。做了这么多天的翻译员加讲解员，现在可以用单纯的华语交谈，还真有点不习惯，呵呵。
We had our dinner at the restaurant nearby. I feel a bit uneasy when Annike is not around, because I already used to speak English and be a translator for so many days. Haha.

嫣病倒了在房里休息，我和鹏就到附近著名的宽窄巷子走走。这是一条典型的旅游街，就像吉隆坡的茨场街一样，专做游客生意。不过这里的摆设格调高雅的多，不想茨场街都是翻版货。
Sam is officially sick and need to rest at bed, so David and I walk along the famous Kuan Lane without her. This is a typical tourist street, just like the Petaling Street in Kuala Lumpur. The settings here are more high class, you won't see pirated goods here, but a lot of beautifully decorated cafe.



这个广告真够搞笑！



想不到这里也有星巴克！We got Starbucks here!

回到旅舍后，负责带团参观乐山大佛的Joyce告诉我们明天会有辆车过去，但要筹足6个人才行，目前只有1个老外要去。Annike临时说不要去了，想在成都先休息一天。嫣生病没去，就老外、鹏、沐泽和我4人还不够呢。后来真巧有两位中国旅客（艺浩和一位忘了叫什么名字的女生）也要去，刚好6人！你说，我们这次出来旅行不是很幸运吗？
The moment we step into the hostel, Joyce (a tour guide) tell us that there will be a car going to Le Shan Grand Buddha tomorrow morning, but we need to get 6 persons. Since Annike is not going with us, we only got 4 persons now (a Swedish guy, David, Zhe Mu and I). Just before we go to bed, there are another 2 local tourists joined us, we got 6 persons now! Haha...I think that we are very lucky throughout the trip!

中国之旅-西北篇（13/4/2009）

早晨起床后，就有早餐在等待我们享用了。我和Annike迷上了藏民的茶，喝了一碗又一碗，直到喝不下为止。吃饱喝暖，我们提着行李，和则大叔拍过照后就离开了。
This morning, we had an early breakfast. Annike and I love the Tibetan tea very much, we drink cup by cup until we can't take it anymore! Then, we pack our luggage,take a photo with Uncle Zhe, and left his house shortly.


看了看地图，今天要走10多公里的路，而且要重游镜海，又要在5点前赶到车站买车票，不坐巴士不行了。跟据旅游书上的建议，通常我们在沟内搭车很少人会查票的，我们抱着姑且一试的心态到车站等车。没想到一到车站，马上有个人跑过来查票了，一查车票是过期的，就客气的要我们布票，不让我们上车。我们当然不愿意多付钱。等他离开后，我们打算步行到诺日朗瀑布再试试看，那里是中介站，人比较多，该不会在注意到我们吧。
According to the map, we have to walk more than 10km, and we need to buy bus ticket to Cheng Du before 5pm, seems like we have no other choices but take a bus. Normally, there will not be anyone checking for bus ticket, so we plan to give it a try. Oops, our first attempt failed, there is a guard checking for bus ticket near the bus stop, so we are not allowed to enter the bus unless we pay for it. After the guard left, we try to walk to the Nuorilang Fall. Since there are more people waiting for bus in Nuorilang, hopefully nobody notice us.


没想到我们真的很幸运，才一到站马上又有人来查票了。看来我们是被盯上了，无论到哪里上车都会被查车票的。我们尝试央求管理员让我们搭一站的车到镜海，但还是没法说服他，最后只好选择放弃了。我们循原路走回去树正寨，打算一直走到沟口了。
But our theory is proven wrong again. There is another guard awaiting to check for bus ticket in Nuorilang! I guess we are being spotted, no matter where we go there must be someone awaiting to check our bus ticket. We try to ask for a favour to bring us to Mirror Lake only, but the guard refuse to grant us the permission to take bus. So we have to walk back to Shu Zheng village then.

用水流推动齿轮转动经轮 The wheels are turned by water, smart!

这时，我和Annike仿佛很有默契的，越走越快。原来我们都在找着同样的东西--厕所！哈哈，早上和太多茶了，憋了好久。我们快步走了近半个小时，才找到厕所，真的谢天谢地~
At this moment, I found that Annike is following my speed, and we are walking faster and faster! Haha, we are finding the same thing -- toilet! We drink too much tea this morning... Finally, we manage to find the toilet after half an hour of "sprinting", gosh~~


可是要走回树正沟还有一段路，会耗费我们更多的体力和时间。道高一尺，魔高一丈，我们还是想到了办法乘巴士回到树正沟去。我们2前2后地分开走，终于还是上了巴士。正当我们暗暗高兴时，巴士停站了，早上发现我们的那位管理员又出现了，我们赶紧别过脸不看他。没想到司机突然宣布车子要往上开，要去树正沟的人下车等下一辆巴士，我的妈呀~~我们只好乖乖下车，乖乖等那位管理员发现我们。他说我们坐了车要付钱，（我们当然不会付拉）我们只好不做声地一面走一面听着他骂。嘿嘿，我们都已经快到达树正沟了，才不管你呢~~
Although we are still fresh, but it will waste a lot of our time and energy to walk back to Shu Zheng village. Hence, we plan a plot, we walk 2 by 2 and pretend don't know each other. Finally, we manage to enter the bus without any interferences. We are so happy at that time, but still pretend to be cool. However, we are really having bad luck today, the bus only drive us for one stop before changing direction to go up again. We are forced to wait for another bus to go down to Shu Zheng village. Well, as expected, the security guard that spotted us this morning, is waiting us at the bus stop again. So we are scolded badly for not paying the bus fares, but who care! We are very near to Shu Zheng village already...wahaha~~

或许是昨天走的太累了，晚上也睡得不是很好，Annike和半生病状态的嫣都不多说话。无论如何，这些都无法阻挡九寨沟的魅力，童话般的景色还是让我们叹为观止！
Maybe we are exhausted after yesterday trip, and not sleep well at night, Annike and half-sick Sam looks quiet today. However, this will not stop us from appreciating the magnificent beauty of Jiu Zhai Gou. The fairy land still keep stunning us with its unparallel beauty.





早上出发的时候还冷得发抖，走到中午后热的发狂，哈哈。简单地吃了些干粮后，我们又继续沿着栈道步行了。有的地方栈道正在修理，有告示牌让我们走大路，但我们还是偷偷走进栈道。原因无他，走栈道能看到更多美丽的景色！
We are still shivering in the morning, but feeling damn hot in the afternoon. We had some simple fruits and biscuit before continueing our journey along the plank road. Some of the plank roads are under construction and not safe for walking, but we still insist to walk along it. The reason is simple, you simply can't see good view if you skip the plank road and walk along the main road!









树正沟的景区都很密集，所以即使不坐巴士也能漫步欣赏。比起日则沟的景点，这里的景点都比较“小巧”，但也各有特色。
The lakes around Shu Zheng Valley are very near to each other, so it is very convenient to walk from one spot to another.
下午3点多，我们到了九寨沟最后一个两个景点 -- 扎入寺和宝镜岩。
330pm, we are visiting the last 2 spots in Jiu Zhai Go -- Zha Ru Temple and Treasure Mirror Cliff.

宝镜岩 Treasure Mirror Cliff



扎如寺 Zha Ru Temple

扎如寺正在维修当中（外面的告示牌说维修是在2007年开始的，怎么干了这么久还没修好？），不允许进入，但我还是趁着保安人员睡午觉的机会溜进去了。由于大门深锁，我也看不到什么，就只好在外头向佛顶礼了。离开扎如寺之前，我们还发现了这个贴在寺墙上的小标签！
Zha Ru Temple is still under renovation (which started since 2007, take so long to not finish?), so we are not allowed to enter. But I still manage go in without waking up the security that nap so well. Since the doors are locked, I can't see anything inside the temple, so I just salute to Buddha outside the temple. While leaving the temple, we found something on the wall!


哇，需要这样吗？(We strongly oppose any actions from Dalai Lama and followers that plan to liberalize Tibet!)

Annike在路旁拾起了一张纸，像宝贝一样珍藏着。纸上面写着藏文，该是经文之类的吧。下午4点半，我们准时回到九寨沟门口，结束了童话世界般的旅程。
Annike picked up a paper on the floor, and treat it like treasure. The paper is wrtten in Tibetan words, I guess it is some Buddhism scriptures. 430pm, we reached the gate of Jiu Zhai Gou, and this mark the end of our journey to the Fairy Land.

九寨沟入口处的一条河 A river at the gate of Jiu Zhai Gou

接下来，两位女生回去天堂了，我和鹏则继续走了20分钟到车站，有惊无险地买了明天到成都的车票。这是最后4张车票了。回去旅舍的路途真要命，我们一面走一面讲话，结果走得气喘吁吁的，呵呵。
Two ladies go back to rest, David and I still need to walk 20 minutes to buy the bus ticket to Cheng Du. Ah ha... we manage to get the last 4 tickets! It is really killing to walk another 40 minutes back to the hostel, because we are talking excitingly while walking, haha.

车站就坐落在边边街，很奇怪的名字对吧？


到成都的最后4张车票 The last 4 tickets to Cheng Du


在九寨沟最后的晚餐~~ Last dinner in Jiu Zhai Gou

吃饱饭，我们就在附近商店买了些干粮。Annike说要回去旅舍上网，我们则在附近散步。当我们回到旅舍时，突然听到Annike气鼓鼓地喊我的名字，原来不知什么缘故旅舍接到警方的通知，不让外国人在旅舍里头上网（这是什么怪规矩？我到现在都弄不明白是怎么回事），Annike也无可奈何。我陪她到附近找网吧，还好让我们找着了一间，她还在网上发现一间成都的青旅，每晚只是10元！我们订的那间30元一晚呢！
After having our dinner, we walk around the hostel to buy some food for tomorrow. Annike wants to use Internet, so we continue our walk nearby while she heads toward the hostel. Suddenly, I heard Annike calling my name with angry face, telling me that she is prohibited from using Internet in the hostel. The police had informed the hostel to stop foreigners to use Internet (What stupid idea is this? I still don't understand the logic behind this action).

In the end, I accompany Annike to find an Internet cafe nearby. Luckily we still manage to find one! Annike manage to find a very cheap hostel in Cheng Du (10 yuan/night) and booked it immediately.

回到房里，Annike准备睡觉了，我找了志鹏一起尝下午买的青稞酒。没想到看起来像开水的青稞酒（51%浓度！），喝下去却像烈火一样，整个身体马上热了起来。我们喝了一半就不敢再喝了，免得喝醉了明天起不了身。
It is around 9pm when we go back our room, Annike is preparing to sleep already. I manage to get David from his room to try out the local wine (Qing Ke, 51% alchohol) we bought this afternoon. The wine looks like water, but taste like fire! I feel like buring after drinking quarter of it.

中国之旅-西北篇（12/4/2009）

相信昨晚大家都睡得很香。我和Annike享受了一顿昂贵的早餐后，就会合鹏和嫣走路去九寨沟了。走了不久，突然碰见柜台那位小姐，她说身旁那辆车是晚上我们住的则大叔家的，建议我们把一些行李放进车里减轻负担。
Annike and I had a delicious and expensive breakfast before meeting Sam and David to walk to Jiu Zhai Gou Nature Park. After walking for a few minutes, we meet the receptionist with a car beside her. She told us that the car belongs to Uncle Zhe, since we are going to stay at his house tonight, we can put our luggage into the car first.


购买门票时，我的学生证终于派上用场了，省了50元！九寨沟景点分布成一个Y型，玩九寨沟有两种方法。第一种适合来去匆匆的游客，可以乘坐环保巴士到每个景点下车，参观拍照。基本上这种方法一天就可以把九寨沟游遍了，但是没什么意思。我们选择了第二种方法，第一天坐巴士游览长海景区和原始森林，然后步行到树正沟；第二天则完全步行游览剩余的景区，省下了昂贵的巴士费。
Finally, I can use my student card to get discount for ticket, it save me 50 Yuan! Jiu Zhai Gou is a Y shape park, there are two common ways to visit the park. The first way is to follow the bus that stops at every fixed spots, walk around, take photos, jump to bus again. This is the most efficient way, because you can visit all the spots within one day, but it end up very rush. So we choose the second way, follow bus to Long Lake, Five-colour Lake and Prenival Forest, then walk along the plank road to Shuzheng Stockade for the first day. Second day, we will walk to all other spots, not taking bus anymore.

我们首先跟随巴士到长海景区参观，坐落在Y字的一端，第一站长海就让我叹为观止了！那种气魄和瑰丽，简直让我窒息了！我恨不得周围的旅客都消失了，让我能够宁静的拥有这幅不似人间应有的仙景。
The first spot we visit is Long Lake, located at one end of the Y shape. It is indeed a stunning view! I hope that I can appreciate the view quietly, this is not a scenery that you can see everyday, it is like a heaven!





在长海景区，有很多藏族人（可能是假扮的）在游说旅客穿藏族衣服拍照，然后向你收费。
There are many Tibetans (or maybe not) lobbying tourists to wear their costume and take photos, so they can get money as reward.



接着，我们到五彩池去了。由于现在还是春季和夏季的交接时期，很多景区都还缺水，所以经过上、中、下季节海的时候都只能看到干枯的湖而已。
Next, we visit Five-colour Lake. Since April is in between Spring and Summer, many places still lack of water. Hence, we can only see dry lakes when we passed by the upper, middle and lower seasonal lake.




游览过了长海景区，我们跟随巴士到Y字的另一端日则沟景区去了，大概10分钟我们就到达原始森林了。地图上说有熊猫，但我们却半只都没见到...
After visiting Long Lake Zone, we follow the bus to another end of the Y shape. We spend 10 minutes to reach the Primary Forest Zone. The map says there are pandas, but we never see any of them...




进入森林的时刻让我想起5年前短期出家的经验，那时进入原始森林感觉蛮恐怖的。这里属于不同种类的森林，没有马来西亚的热带雨林那么茂密，却也别有一番宁静的美。看过原始森林，我们选择步行到接下来的几个景点，希望530pm前可以赶到树正寨。
While entering the forest, I recall the memory of entering a primary forest (which is quite scary) while being a novice monk 5 years ago. However, forest in Malaysia is very dense, not like the one we see here. We decided to walk along the plank road to other spots, hopefully we can reach Shu Zheng Stockade by 530pm.



左图：靠近大路的栈道 右图：靠近山区的栈道
Left: Plank road near the main road Right: Plank road that build along the mountain.



沿途我们经过了草海到达天鹅湖，在天鹅湖旁吃午餐。如此醉人的美景，加上新鲜水果和干粮，也算是出门旅游的一种享受吧，哈哈~~
We had our lunch at Swan Lake. Magnificent scenery with fresh food and biscuits, what a good combination, haha~~





过了天鹅湖，就是一连串小湖和大湖，把我们看得口瞪目呆！九寨沟的湖都是清澈见底的，清澈到能够见到湖底树干的地步。最特别的地方是湖的颜色会随着观看角度、时间（阳光赵色角度）和季节改变的！刚刚看到是浅蓝色的湖，走了几分钟回头看又变成青色了，美得笔墨难以形容~~
After we walk pass Swan Lake, there are plenty of medium and small lakes that stun us with their unparalleled beauty! Majority of the lakes in Jiu Zhai Gou are crystal clear, where you can see the trees under water clearly. The most special thing about lakes in Jiu Zhai Gou is that it will change colour if you view it from different angle, if the sun shine on the lake from different angle (different time) or if you visit them on different season! While the lake shows light blue 10 minute ago, it might change to green if you walk further and turn back to see it. Fantastic~~




“清澈见树”的箭竹海 Crystal clear Arrow Bamboo Lake





熊猫海瀑布 Panda Waterfall

在九寨沟步行很过瘾，因为你不知道什么时候会出现一幅让你惊叫的美景，就像我们不知道什么时候生活会出现惊喜一样。我们是不是每天都这样走着走着走着呢？
It is very fun to walk in Jiu Zhai Gou, simply because there is always fabulous scenery that surprise you, and you never know when it will happen. It is just like our life, surprises do happen. In our daily life, are we walking, walking and walking like this as well?









下午4点20分，我们走到了五花海，开始觉得不对劲了。照这样的速度，肯定无法在5点半赶到树正寨。看来我们只好舍弃一些景点，坐巴士回去，明天在折返了。
420pm, we reached Five Flower Lake, it is quite late already. We know we will not be able to finish our journey with this speed, so we decide to take bus back to Shu Zheng Stockade, and visit the remaining spots tomorrow.



美的像假的一样~~ Very beautiful, looks like it is not real~~






走进去看，还可以看到有鱼呢！据说九寨沟的冷水鱼一年才长几公分，所以非常珍贵。
If you walk near the lake, you can see fishes swimming happily! The cold-water-fishes in Jiu Zhai Gou only grow a few centimeters per year.




终于，我们决定上巴士了。路过镜海时，车导告诉我们这就是电影《英雄》的拍摄地之一。由于时间不早了，我决定不下去景点了，明天再过来看吧。
When the bus passed by Mirror Lake, the tour guide told us that this is where they make the film "Hero" (by Jet Lee).


到了树正寨后，我打电话给负责接待我们的则大叔。不久，有个人走过来问我们要不要到藏民家住宿，我婉拒了。他望了我几秒，然后连带羞涩的问，刚才是不是你打电话来？哈哈，原来他就是则大叔！
I called Uncle Zhe to pick us up. While waiting for him, we see a man walking towards us, and ask us whether we need room tonight, but I rejected him. He hesitates for a few seconds, and asked me, are you the one calling me just now? Haha... now only I know he is Uncle Zhe!


这里的藏民分布在九个寨子里，所以这个地方叫九寨沟。据说开放的只有3个寨子，另外6个还没开发成景区，所以我们无法进入参观。我们住的树正寨是其中一个开发了的寨子（另外两个是荷叶寨和则查洼寨，许多藏民都做旅客生意为主。则大叔告诉我们，以前政府允许旅客在沟内住宿，所以生意很好，旺季时还会把60各房子都住满！后来不允许沟内住宿后，藏民的收入大减。我们到了这时才知道沟内是不允许住宿的，呵呵~不过很多旅游书和网站都介绍说要在藏民家住宿，不会有问题的。
There are 9 villages in Jiu Zhai Gou, 3 of them are open to tourists, while the other 6 are still under-develop. Shu Zheng village is one of the village that open for tourists visit, and most of the Tibetans here earn their living from tourism activities. Uncle Zhe told me, previously the government allow tourists to stay inside Jiu Zhai Gou, so they earn a lot. During peak season, his 60 rooms hostel is always full! But now they do not allow people to stay inside anymore, all tourists have to stay at hotels outside Jiu Zhai Gou. Now only we know that it is prohibited to stay over night here, haha.... But since many tourist books recommend it, why not?


安顿好行李后，Annike就建议我们到处走走看看。她看来爱上了旗子，拼命地找寻藏民绘满经文的旗子拍摄。走着走着，突然听到有人在喊我们，要我们快些上巴士离开了。我们对他说我们不走，要在沟内住宿，他“若有所悟”地点了点头离开了。
After settle down in the Tibetan house (looks like a hostel), Annike suggests to walk around. She likes the flags a lot, and keep taking photos of the flags with scriptures written on it. Suddenly, a man shouted at us, asking us to go on the bus and leave. We told him we are not leaving, we are going to stay inside Jiu Zhai Gou. He left after then.

回到则大叔家，我们一面挨饿等待着晚餐的来临，一面思考怎么还不见早上载走我们行李的那位年轻人？我们是不是把行李给错了人？会不会真的摆乌龙了？晚餐终于姗姗来迟，不管那么多，吃了再算！
It is quite late now, but the dinner still not ready yet, so we have no choice but wait. David and I keep wondering, where is the young man that took our luggage this morning? Did we pass to the correct person? Finally, the dinner is ready!

吃饱喝暖，马上觉得倦意来袭了。嫣累得要病倒了，则大叔的女儿赶紧拿了感冒药给她。我和鹏正在房里研究着怎样用电动暖被，嫣突然闯了进来，说她的房里只有一个暖被，能不能把我们的也借过去。为了不让这半个病人真的病倒，我们赶紧把多出的暖被送过去隔壁房。刚坐在床上，才发现原来每间房都有两个暖被的，晕倒~
We feel especially tired after the dinner. Sam nearly fall sick, Uncle Zhe's daughter gave her some medicine. While David and I are investigating how to use the electrical warming blanket, Sam entered our room and asked if we can borrow her one, because there is only one blanket in her room. We quickly detach the one in our room and bring it to her room, end up finding that there is actually 2 electrical warming blankets per room! Poor Sam, she must be too tired to find the second one~~

晚上9点多，要睡觉又太早，玩牌的话有不够人（嫣休息了），我们3人就找了些话题闲聊。Annike走后，我和鹏还在废话连篇。突然他爆出一句：“这里这么豪华，像是藏民的hotel，应该叫藏tel才对！”哇靠，我听了马上晕倒，隔壁房的嫣也大声笑起来，Annike则一脸茫然的瞪着嫣翻译。
9pm, it is too early to sleep, but we do not have enough players for card game as well (Sam is resting on her warm bed), so 3 of us just do some chatting. After Annike left, David and I still talking crap. Suddenly, David says,"This place looks like the hotel of Tibetans, we should call it Zang-tel! (Tibetan is called Zang Zhu in mandarin)" What a joke! Sam was laughing loudly at next room, while Annike looks confused and awaiting Sam for translation.

中国之旅-西北篇（11/4/2009）

左边是手艺娴熟的老板在搓面，右边是机灵的儿子在注意客人有什么需要。
The boss is making the noodles skillfully, while the smart son is observing what the customers might need.

今天要出发到九寨沟了，心情特别兴奋！我们到同一间清真餐馆吃了牛肉面，然后买了些干粮就上车了。由于清晨下过雨，感觉特别寒冷。
Today, we have our breakfast early in the morning, bought some food from the sundry shops, and head towards Jiu Zhai Gou right after that. It is a cold rainy morning.




这是我们在中国第一次坐长途巴士，而且需要坐9个小时，看来该是很不好受。一路上Annike在专心听着心爱的iPod，也和我分享了几首她最喜欢的歌曲。从江油进入九寨沟的路非常不好走，这完全出乎我们意料。一路上我们都是走山路，比昨天去陈家坝的路好要险峻，而且都是只有双行道，上下山的车都要非常小心。走了将近1个多小时，我突然发现右边的一段路被土崩后的砂石掩盖了，剩下一条刚好能让巴士通过的单行道，司机却若无其事的绕过去了。我尝试望窗外看，发现只要司机估计稍微错误，我们马上会掉入万丈深渊了。路上同样的状况还真不少，坐在车上真让人捏把冷汗。这时，Annike轻轻问我，“你觉得我们会不会死在这里？如果我死了，我的家人能够知道这是我吗？你不怕吗？”
This is the first time we take a bus for long journey in China, and it is a 9-hours journey! Annike is listening to her beloved iPod, and shares with me some of her favourite songs. The road condition is bad, we have to cross many mountains with the 2-lanes road that looks disrepair. This is totally out of our expectation. I think the driver have to be extra careful.

One hour past, I suddenly found that the 2-lanes road now only left 1, because the other side is damaged by landslide. The remaining lane is just enough for a bus to pass by, but the driver looks calm and steady when he drives off the road. I look out the window, and found that we might fall over the mountain if the driver make a very small mistake. It is very common to see this situation on the way to Jiu Zhai Gou, which make us start to worry. Annike asked me softly,"Do you think we will die at the journey? Will my family able to identify me if i died? Don't you worry about this?"

路上的风景，很美吧？Scenery that we see on the way to Jiu Zhai Gou, fantastic isn't?

窗外的景色明媚，我手中翻着Annike随身携带的英语旅游书（她称之为圣经），发现了其中的一段话：“若要从成都或其他地区乘巴士进入九寨沟，最好别选择在4月，因为这个月份多雨路滑，容易发生车祸。”我们相识而笑，该不会这么幸运吧~~
The scenery out side the window is magnificent. I am reading on the English travelling book that Annike bring with her (she called it her Bible), and found a paragraph there stated,"..if you plan to go to Jiu Zhai Gou by bus from Cheng Du or other places, please avoid April, because it will be raining frequently. It is a accident prone period." We looked at each other and smile, we can't be the lucky one isn't it~~

中午1点，我们在平武县稍作休息。
1pm, we take a short rest at Pin Wu city.



巴士开车了，这时我们才察觉，外面有下雪了！我的心冷了半截，不会吧，下雪天要翻山越岭？这趟旅程最惊险的时候来临了，只见司机一面按喇叭，一面用专业的手势摆动方向盘，还有余暇跟旁边一位不知死活的旅客闲聊。路上铺满了雪，只要司机稍有闪失或刹车失灵，这滑不遛秋的道路肯定会把我们“送”下山去的~~
The bus starts again after a short stop, and now we realized that it is snowing! I am wondering, if it safe to drive on those road while it is snowing? The most dangerous part in the journey has come, whereby I can see the driver keep horning and controlling the sterling wheel skillfully, while chit-chating with another passenger! The surface of road is full of snow, if the driver make any small mistake or the braking system goes wrong, we will be "send" down to the mountain~~The sea level of this area is high, so it is quite common to snow during this season.

经过了2个小时左右，我们总算过了高海拔的地区，不再看到雪景了。下午5点半，我们到达了九寨沟县城后，转到了另一辆巴士，再坐一个小时车才到达九寨沟沟口。我在巴士上给天堂青年旅舍的老板打了个电话，让他在车站等我们。一下巴士，我们马上被一大群的旅馆工作人员围着招客。Annike不懂中文逃过一劫（因为他们也不会说英语，呵呵），鹏和嫣则动作一致地指着我，让他们找我谈。开始时我很客气说不用了，后来不耐烦了就直接不理睬，最后被逼出绝招说我们已经订了旅馆，付了钱（其实还没有）。没想到他们还是死缠烂打，说我们住的那间天堂青年旅舍骗人，诸般不是，有的还出言不逊。
Finally, we manage to go pass the area with high sea level after 2 hours, and we never see snow anymore. 5pm, we reached the Jiu Zhai Gou city area. We move to another bus, and it takes us another 1 hour to reach the gate of Jiu Zhai Gou nature park. I manage to call the boss of Heaven Youth Hostel, asked him to pick us up at the bus station.

The moment we alighted from bus, we are surrounded by a crowd of people pursuading us to stay at their hostel. They give us lots of offers and various luxury packages, which we don't even interested to know. Since Annike don't understand Mandarin, I guess nobody interested to talk to her (they don't know English, maybe). Sam and David does respond to them but point the finger to me (this is our plan also), haha... In the begining, I try to reject them politely, but they do not satisfy with my respond. Finally, I told everyone, we already booked hostel and made payment. They start to comdemn the hostel we choose with various makeup stories, make us feel even more angry.

好不容易等到旅舍老板曾先生到来，我们总算得救了！曾先生看起来为人老实厚道，小强果然没有介绍错地方。在办理入住手续的时候，突然来了一对夫妇，负责招待的小姐赶紧向我们求助。原来他们来自泰国，不会中文，只会简单几句英语。这是马来西亚人的语言天分派上用场了，我们赶紧帮助他们顺利登记入住。
Finally, the boss Mr Zheng arrived with his own taxi, we are safe! Mr Zheng looks like an honest person, we are happy that Xiao Qiang had introduced us a good hostel. While we are registering at the counter, a couple came in to register as well. The young receptionist seek for our help because she can only speak limited English, same as the couple. So we become the translator between the Thai couple and the receptionist.

进入房间，我们才明白为什么旅舍叫“天堂”，因为以一人人民币30元可以住这样的美的房间，真的像进入天堂一样，哈哈！之前的惊险旅程都被眼下的舒适感冲淡了，我们今晚要好好休息！
Now we understand why the hostel is named "Heaven", because with only 30Yuan we pay, the room is consider very nice, just like entering the heaven after a scary journey. We are going to have a good rest tonight!



虽然住宿便宜，但是这里食物供应不容易，伙食超级不便宜，价格比城市贵上2-3倍。
Although it is cheap to stay here, but it is not easy to get food supply in Jiu Zhai Gou, so the food is not cheap. It is 2-3 times more expensive compare to the price in normal city.

我们的桌上，少不了还是会有番茄炒蛋。
Well, you still can see the fried eggs with potatoes on our table, cheers~~

晚餐后，我们就准备好这几天的脏衣服到楼下的洗衣间洗衣服去了。没想到原来4人中只有我用过这种半自动式的洗衣机，呵呵~~Annike仿佛很好奇这种洗衣机到底是怎样运作的，看得口瞪目呆，结果我们俩就这样望着洗衣机瞪了10多分钟才甘心回房。换过几次水后，衣服总算干净了，我们便七手八脚的晾起衣服来。晚上的天气还是很冷，冻得手都疼了。
After dinner, we bring all our dirty clothes to the washing room. It seems like I am the only one familiar with this semi-automatic washing machine, haha~~ Annike looks like very interested in the washing machine, so two of us spend more than 10 minutes staring on it before getting back to our room. After a few times of washing and rinsing, the clothes are clean now. Two of us manage to hang all the clothes in split second.

清算了这几天的账目后，我们都已经疲累不堪，连玩牌的力气都没有了。嫣和鹏回房后，我们看了一会儿书，也跟着睡觉了。
Everyone looks tired, so we do not play cards tonight. After Sam and David left, Annike and I spend some time to read before going to bed. It is a cold cold night~~

中国之旅-西北篇（10/4/2009）

中午12点，我们到达了江油，李白的故乡。出了火车站，我马上碰上了到中国以来第一次的语言障碍。原来这里的人都说川话，听起来好像把“平上去入”音调都搞乱了似的。结果我在问路的时候，我说的话他们都明白，但他们说的话我都不明白！搞了大半天，我终于弄懂了大概的意思，我们于是搭了巴士到十八队的汽车站。
12 noon, we reached Jiang You, the hometown of a famous poet during Tang Dynasty. When I walked out from the railway station, I am facing problem to understand the local dialect (which is the first time after so many days of travelling!). They can understand what I say, but I can't figure out what they try to tell me... In the end, I manage to get some clues from a lady, then we take a bus to the bus station at 18th-troops.

到了车站，果然如小强之前所说的，只有一轮早上的巴士进入九寨沟。买了车票后，我到附近找了几家旅舍，都不怎么合意，价钱都超出预算。后来看到一间勉强可以住，但是老板娘要价30元，算了吧！转了一个圈回来后，我们决定还是回去火车站附近那间便宜又干净的旅舍。正当我们决定离开时，那位老板娘追了过来，开价15元一个床位，我们马上答应了。呵呵，这是变相砍价吧。
When we reached the bus station, I found out that there is only one bus going in Jiu Zhai Gou everyday, so we got no choice but stay one night in Jiang You. After buying ticket, I try to search around the few hostels nearby, but they are all too expensive. I found one suitable hostel just beside the bus station, but the lady boss offer 30Yuan, which is expensive to our standard. So we decided to go back to the hostel near railway station that offer a cheaper price. In the end, the lady boss say she can offer us 15 Yuan per bed (wow, half the price!), we are happy with the price finally.




这间旅舍是简陋了点，但是还算整洁干净，最重要是靠近汽车站，方便我们明天出发。安顿好行李后，我们到附近唯一的餐馆解决午餐（又是牛肉面！）。由于这一路上吃的不是麻辣就是油腻食物，我的嘴唇都快干裂了，再也吃不下辣的食物了。吃过午饭，我们便在路旁向的士司机询问到陈家坝村的价钱，但每个司机都说地震过后那条路不好走，开价都很贵。后来旅舍老板娘看我们问不出个头绪来，就找来了几个朋友商量。一打听下才知道原来去陈家坝可以搭巴士，她还帮我们截了两辆类似泰国Tut-Tut车的自行车载我们到另一个汽车站。
The hostel is "simple and crude", but still looks comfortable and clean. It is just beside the bus station, so we can wake up late tomorrow without missing the bus, haha. We had our lunch at the only restaurant nearby. I am sick of spicy food, because we have been eating spicy food for many days (no other choices, most of the food in North-West China are spicy), my lips is very dry now.

We try to get a taxi to go to Chen Jia Ba, but found that the taxi fare is simply too expensive. The lady boss is noticed that we are having a hard time trying to get to Chen Jia Ba, so she discuss with her friends and try to help us. Eventually, she manage to find 2 pedicab that looks like Tut-Tut in Thailand, to bring us to another bus station nearby. From there we can take a bus to Chen Jia Ba much cheaper compare to taking a cab!


到了汽车站，我们乘巴士到陈家坝去了！从江油到陈家坝要2个小时车程，而且都是山路，因为要翻过很多山，经过很多河流才到达。一路上我们看到的除了山水外，就是小村集，很多还是临时搭上去的住所，该是受到地震影响的吧。我们还看到路上挂着许多布条，写着“XX城市人民和XX地区人民心连心”、“XX地区人民衷心感谢XX城市协助灾区重建”等标语。路上也看到不少义工的临时住所，有的已经改成临时学校了。这一路上地势那么险峻，要到这些穷乡僻壤赈灾可真不容易，更别说要重建了。
It takes 2 hours for the bus to reach Chen Jia Ba, because we need to pass by many mountains and rivers. Besides that, we also see a lot of small villages along the way. Most of the houses we see are built for temporary usage, so I think this is affected by the earthquake last year. There are many banners hanging all over the villages, it is written that "Citizens from XX city is always with people from XX village", "XX village thank XX city for helping in rebuilding", etc. I think it is a tough job to reconstruct these villages affected by earthquake, it is an uphill task for transportation.

这时，Annike突然拿起相机拍了几张照，然后跟我分享她在北京、平遥和西安旅行时拍的照片。当她讲述她在西安照顾孤儿的经验时，注视着照片的双眼洋溢着母爱，仿佛这些婴孩都是她亲生的。她该是个充满爱心的善良女生吧，这些小孩子能够得到她的爱，也算是一种福报。她告诉我，中国有很多这类身有残疾的孤儿，他们可能终身都得不到关爱，但是很多人却对这种情景视若无睹，这让她感到非常痛心。
Annike bring out her camera and start taking photos. She share with me the photos she had taken during the trip to Bei Jing, Ping Yao and Xi An. When she tries to describe her experience in taking care of the babies in the orphanage, I can see her eyes full of maternal love, as if those kids are her sons and daughters. I think she must be a kind and caring gal, the kinds are lucky to have her. She told me that there are many diable orphanage in China, they might not get any love from the people around for their whole life. She feels very sad about that.



来到陈家坝，才算真正看到了中国的贫富悬殊有多大。在这个称得上穷乡僻壤的地方，经过了地震的摧残后更加贫困了。简陋的房子、鲜有车辆通行的道路、拿着简陋工具劳动的人们，成了陈家坝乡村生活的最佳写照。
Chen Jia Ba is a typical poor village in China, it makes me think of how big is the gap between rich and poor people in china. We can see simple houses, road with very less (or no) car passing by and residents that work with their crude tools in Chen Jia Ba.



到达了陈家坝后，我马上感到有很多异样的眼光看着我和Annike。可能这里很少（或不曾）有西方人来过吧，所以他们看Annike好像看希奇事物似的。陈家坝不大，就只有一条街道，旁边有很多小商店、民居和义工临时住所。那些义工临时住所看来已经没有义工在住了，住的都是当地的人，有的用作小学。
When we walk along the street in Chen Jia Ba, I can feel that many people are looking at Annike and me. It seems like they seldom (or never) see westerner coming to this village before. Chen Jia Ba is a small village with only a main road, some small shop lots along the road, and some temperary settlements of volunteers. It seems like nobody is living in the temporary settlements now, and part of it is used as temporary primary school.

我和Annike走得比较慢，主要是想看得比较仔细，却也因此遇上了两个来自青岛的人。他们俩是青岛市政府的官员，正在监督和汇报陈家坝的灾区重建。原来这一带的地震灾区都是由中国各地城市“领养”的，每个城市领养的城市会负责各自领养区的灾区重建，而青岛负责的正是陈家坝。青岛市政府将在这里建一些公共设施，以及一间全国最先进的小学。他们说世界各地的捐款对灾区重建帮助很大，所以非常欢迎我们来考察重建的工作，还热情地跟我和Annike拍了一张照。我跟Annike开玩笑，不知道明天我们会不会出现在当地报章，说是外国间谍到陈家坝收集中国国家机密，呵呵~~
Annike and I walk slowly along the road, observing the daily activities of the villagers. Suddenly, there are two man approaching us, and they speak English! They are government officers from the Qing Dao city, coming over to observe the rebuilding process of Chen Jia Ba. The rebuilding of the places affected by earthquake last year, is headed by some big cities in China, where each of them will adopt one place to work on. Qing Dao is in charge of rebuilding Chen Jia Ba, and they plan to build some infrastructures including the top primary school in Chen Jia Ba.

They told us that China had received a lot of funds from all over the world since the earth quake, so he welcome us to withness the rebuilding of Chen Jia Ba. He even took a picture of Annike and me. I joke with Annike, maybe we will appear in tomorrow local newspaper, saying that two foreign spies are collecting information in Chen Jia Ba, haha...

陈家坝虽然是个小地方，但是景色却很秀丽，住在这里该是满写意的。虽然说政府通过“城市领养灾区”的方式进行灾区重建，但这只限于公共设施而已。对于民居的重建，政府完全让灾民自生自灭（这是哪两位青岛人说的），这是共产社会吗？Annike告诉我中国政府在处理灾区重建方面对西方社会存有某种敌意，不欢迎西方国家插手。可是经过了将近一年，灾区的重建似乎没有什么起色，为什么当初不接受别人的援助呢？
We found that it is very ridiculous for the China government to help only on rebuilding the public infrastructure. What about the residential area? According the two Qing Dao officers, the people have to build their house by their own. Annike told me that the Chinese government is relunctant to accept any sort of help in rebuilding the places affected by earth quake, especially offers from the western countries. That is why after one year, there is still very little progress.

不用怀疑，车顶上的的确是苍蝇！幸好车开动后苍蝇没有乱飞，否则我真地会抓狂~~
Yes, it is flies all over the roof of the bus! Luckily the flies do not fly all over the bus, else I will really go mad~~

下午5点，我们坐上巴士离开了陈家坝。回到旅舍，我和Annike想洗澡，于是便轮流用那个看起来蛮恐怖又简陋的洗澡间。想不开热水冲凉有太冷了，开了热水有汤死人，结果我只好用最快的速度冲完，免得被烫熟了。轮到Annike时，一半的热水被我用完了，老板娘便敲厕所门要她先把水外面的水加满。结果两个人鸡同鸭讲了半天，老板娘才来向我们求救；原来要安心冲凉都不容易。
5pm, we left Chen Jia Ba. After settle down in the hostel, Annike and I want to take bath, so I be the first one to test out the weird bathroom. The bathroom is "equiped" with hot water supply, but it is either too hot or too cold, so I have to take bath in very fast and efficient way to avoid being cooked by the hot water. While it is Annike turn, half of the hot water is being used, so the lady boss keep nagging Annike to fill up the tank outside before using. Obviously Annike don't understand what she said, the lady boss is so frustrated and finally seek for our help. Well, it is not easy to even take a nice shower, haha...



老兄，你真的需要这样充电吗？
Brother, do you really need to charge your gadgets in this way?

晚餐时候，我提起在大学四年间我是个素食主义者，没想到原来Annike也是半个素食主义者，她不吃肉但吃鱼。晚上，我们开始玩牌，直到大家开始神志不清为止。明天，我们就会到达期待已久的九寨沟了，好期待！
While we are having dinner, I told Annike that I was a vegetarian for 4 years during my University life. Surprisingly, Annike is also a vegetarian, she does not take meat but only fish and vegetables. We start playing card games after dinner, until everyone is very tired. Tomorrow is an important day, because we will reach Jiu Zhai Gou finally!

中国之旅-西北篇（9/4/2009）

今天基本上没怎么睡觉，因为6点多就被两个洗厕所工人超大的交谈声吵醒了。好不容易在床上翻滚到9点，终于还是放弃了，刷牙洗脸吧！不久大家都行了，轮流用着唯一的厕所洗漱。想到Annike之后可能有好一段时间都找不到会说英语的人同行，我写了几句简单的句子和英文翻译给她，希望能在她的旅途上派上用场。
Basically, I never sleep well for whole night, and wake up very early (6am) by the 2 talkative workers that wash toilet in early morning. 9am, everyone is awake, we take turn to brush teeth and take bath in the only bathroom that has hot water. While waiting for other people to use the toilet, I am thinking of how to help Annike for her future trip. I wrote down a few sentences that commonly used during travel in Mandarin (with pronunciation), then translate it to English, hoping that she can use this during her trip.

按照原定计划，我们应该去找兰州的旅行社，然后参与他们的团经过甘南去九寨沟的，这是最省时的方法。但是一路上听到的消息都说甘南一带怕有藏民滋事，也不让外国人通过，即使旅行社也不行。安全起见，我们还是选择了比较耗时，但肯定能到九寨沟的方法。
According to our initial plan, we are supposed to find a travel agency and join their trip, so we can go through the Gan Nan area to reach Jiu Zhai Gou, which appear to be the fastest way. However, we heard many local Chinese saying that Gan Nan has many Tibetan settlements, so the Chinese government had stopped foreigners to enter this area, even we join trip of travel agency. Hence, we decided to take a time consuming way, which gurrantee us to reach Jiu Zhai Gou.

早晨兰州的街头 Street view of Lan Zhou in early morning

富师傅陪同我们到兰州火车站去买车票，一路上Annike还在斟酌着要如何走下一步。我告诉她，跟着我们走吧，去了九寨沟再回到成都，肯定会遇到更多西方背包客的。Annike 欣然答应了，就这样我们买了4张道江油的车票，然后吃早餐去。接着，我们送富师傅到泊车的地方，依依不舍的道别了。富师傅本来建议兜我们在兰州走一圈的，但考虑到我们已经耽搁他太多时间了，我们还是婉拒了。目送富师傅走后，我仿佛看到Annike眼含泪光。
Fu accompany us to Lan Zhou railway station to buy tickets. Annike still look undecided about her next trip, so I tell her, follow us. We can go Jiu Zhai Gou first, then Cheng Du, there will be more westereners in Cheng Du. She agreed happily, so finally we bought 4 tickets to Jiang You! After having a farewell breakfast, we accompany Fu to the place he park his car, then say good bye to him with heavy feeling. Fu offer to take us for final ride around Lan Zhou city, but we rejected him, because we already caused a lot of problems and delay to him in this trip. Finally, Fu left us. I thought I see Annike with some tears on her eyes.

还有4个多小时才上火车，我听说兰州黄河风景美艳，就建议沿着黄河边散步去了。到了水车园，才发现他们不接受外国学生证，而且门票有点贵，我们就不进去了。沿着黄河步行果然另有一番滋味，沿途我们还看到有人在玩门球（一种像曲棍球的游戏）。Annike看起来对这游戏很感兴趣。
There is still 4 hours before the train depart, so I suggest to walk along Yellow River, as it is desribed as the most beautiful place in Lan Zhou. We never enter the garden, because it is too expensive, and they never recognize foreign student card. It is indeed a great experience to walk along Yellow River. We see people playing a game called "Men Qiu", which is similar to hockey and golf. Annike seems very interested in it.




走累了，我们就坐在草地上休息吃水果。好久没有坐在草地上了，草地对我来说该是个踢足球的地方，没想到静静坐下也可以那么舒服。若没记错，我当时该是在讲述着九寨沟的美景，以及我们接下来的旅程该怎么走。
We sit on the grass after some walk, and had our fruits. It has been a long time I never sit down on the grass so quietly, normally I play football on the field, haha. It is very relaxing to sit on grass. I think I am describing to Annike how beautiful Jiu Zhai Gou is, and how are we going to spend the following days.


兰州的街头杂技？Show time in Lan Zhou street?

下午4点，我们走回兰州车站，开始了20个小时的长途跋涉。
4pm, we have to leave Lan Zhou to continue our 20 hours journey to Jiang You.

嫣和鹏该是很喜欢快熟面，而且好像每次都是嫣选了个难吃的，就逼着鹏交换另一个好吃的，呵呵~~
I bet David and Sam like instant noodles very much. It seems like Sam always pick the one that taste bad, then she will robbed the good one from David, haha~~ So sweet.

我们乘搭的是新的火车，而且乘客不多，所以感觉不错。在火车上昏睡了一个的下午后，我们开始思量如何度过漫漫长夜了。Annike提议我们玩牌，于是就找了个空的上等卧铺车厢，玩起牌来了！我们开始教Annike玩“锄大D"，却发现这个游戏不容易在短时间内掌握。后来Annike介绍了几个简单又好玩的游戏，如Cheat和Shit Head，我们玩得非常尽兴。有位四川老兄（忘了他从哪个地方来）就爱静静坐着看我们玩，还充当保镖帮我们打发前来干扰的火车服务员，呵呵。 后来乘客陆续多了，不能再霸占车厢了，我们只好回去乖乖睡觉。晚上10点，火车准时熄灯，我有预感我又要连续2天失眠了。
We are taking a new train, and there are not many passengers, so it is quite comfortable. We slept the whole afternoon, then start to figure out how we should spend our night time. Annike suggests to play card games, so we immediately find an empty luxurious carriage, and start our game. At first, we try to teach Annike how to play the famous game "Chor Dai D", but it is simply too complicated for a beginer to master it in short time. Annike teaches us a few fun and simple game, I especially like the "Cheat" and "Shit Head".

There is a man from Si Chuan enjoy a lot by seeing us playing the game. He even try to be our "body guard", help us to entertain anyone that request us to leave the carriage.We enjoy the game very much, but are forced to leave the carriage when new passengers start to flock in. 10pm, the light is off, we are forced to go to bed, but I have a feeling that this will be the 2nd day I can't sleep well.

中国之旅 - 西北篇（8/4/2009）

今天将会从敦煌看到兰州，共有1400多公里路程，所以我们都起得特别早。Annike一早就准备好等待出发了，要上车前才发现大家带的行李都不小，呵呵。还好我们还是成功把所有行李塞进车里，开始我们的旅程了！
We are heading to Lan Zhou today, which is 1400km away, so we wake up very early today. Annike is ready to depart in the early morning as well, but soon we found out that our luggage are actually quite big! However, we still manage to squeeze in everything inside the car and drove off.


早餐时间，我一面吃着美味的清真菜包，一面解释给Annike听我们的行程。
I am eating the delicious vegetable buns while explaining to Annike where are we heading to the next few days.

出发到嘉峪关前，我们到昨天那家清真餐馆吃早餐，也乘机跟Annike多聊天。原来她刚从大学毕业后工作了两年，存了一些钱打算出来旅行一年。中国是首站，接着是越南、寮国、泰国和印度。她的旅行计划让我们惊讶不已，一个年轻的女生到语言不同的国度旅行，实在是不容易！我们也乘机交换了一些旅游资讯，我也建议了一些旅游路线让她参考。她听说我们都不知道马蹄寺在哪里后，担心这个地方游客也应该不多，会说英语的更加少，就重新考虑该不该改变行程了。
We had our breakfast at the same Muslim restaurant before starting our journey, and take the opportunity to talk with Annike as well. She graduate from University 2 years ago, and work part time for 2 years to save money for travelling. She plan to travel for 1 year, China is the first stop, then Vietnam, Laos, Thailand and India. We are amazed by her travel plan, it must me hard for a lady to travel alone in places where English is not very common. She is brave! I try to explain to her what I know about the places that we are going to visit, and give her some suggestions what she can do for her trip planning. I guess she is a bit worry when we told her that we never heard about Ma Ti Si, which is the place she is going to visit soon. At this moment, there might not be many westerners in China, so it will be quite hard for her to communicate with other people.

路上看到的风力发电站 We see wind turbine on the way to Jia Yu Pass

到嘉峪关的路上，我们谈了很多旅途上所见闻的事。Annike长相清秀，脸上总是挂着微笑，也蛮健谈。她告诉了我们在北京旅行的经历，以及在西安当孤儿院义工的经验。我想我们之前万万想不到会有其他人加入一起旅行，更想不到会是个西方人，哈哈。富师傅不会说英语，所以一路上我都充当翻译员，感觉蛮过瘾的。Annike应该在路上考虑了很久，终于还是决定跟我们到兰州去。到了兰州，或许能够遇到一些西方游客吧。
On the way to Jia Yu Pass, we exchange our interesting experiences during the trip. Annike is a lovely girl who like to smile, she share with us her experience while travelling to Bei Jing and her experience while working as volunteer in an orphange in Xi An. We never expect that we can travel with other people one day, and the new friend is a westerner! However, Fu do not know how to speak English, so I become the translator between Annike and Fu, it is a good practice for me. After thinking twice, Annike decided to follow us to Lan Zhou, and hopefully she can meet some westerners or people that can speak English in Lan Zhou.







到了嘉峪关，我们终于可以下车舒展身体了，Annike看来坐的很辛苦。嘉峪关是长城最西的一段，建于明朝，是中国当时西北面的一大屏障。我一边解释嘉峪关上的文物和文字，一边和Annike聊起彼此家庭背景、兴趣、各国国情等等。她还对我细细描述了家乡的广阔草原，蜿蜒在草原上的小溪，可爱的鸡群和恬静的田园生活。这个在郊外草原长大的女生，对大自然该是有着一份特别钟爱吧！
Finally, we can spread our legs and hands after reaching Jia Yu Pass, Annike looks like she is suffering during the journey, haha. Jia Yu Pass is built in Ming Dynasty, situated at west of Great Wall, which is very important for the defense of China at the North West. I tried to expalin all the historical relics and Chinese words we see to Annike. We also chat on our family, interests, our countries, etc. She try to describe to me her homeland near countryside with wast grassland, small streams flowing across the grassland, cute chickens and the calm life in countryside. I bet she must be a person that loves the nature a lot!


















我们站在这座历史悠久的长城关隘，谈论着彼此的生活观点。Annike会说几句简单的华语，如谢谢、不客气、吃饱了等。她还央求我叫她数一到十，我们就这样一二三四五地参观了整座嘉峪关。途中不少人投以好奇的眼光，该是我们讲得太大声了，或者他们没见过西方游客？
We are standing on this historical building, talking about our views towards life. Annike speaks some Mandarin sentences like thank you, you are welcome, I am full, etc. She beg me to teach her how to count from 1 to 10, so we keep on saying "yi, er, san, si, wu..." throughout the journey in Jia Yu Pass. Many people are looking at us, maybe we speak to loud, or they never see westerners before?








参观过嘉峪关，考量到上兰州还有很长的路，我们决定放弃参观悬臂长城，直接上兰州了。在路上，富师傅变得比平时更健谈了，可能是因为这是旅途的最后一天了，他感到比较轻松了吧。他跟我们谈起了他的家庭，他的女儿，当年他如何最求他的太太及年轻时的一些趣事。他跟我们分享了当地的一些风俗习惯如婚礼、丧礼的仪式。Annike也跟我们交流一些英国人普遍上对婚姻和爱情的观念，原来英国的离婚率高达50%，这让我们感到很惊讶。但是有很多的英国情侣选择同居而不结婚，因为法律上已经赋予双方一定程度的保障了，结不结婚显得不是那么重要了。
We do not visit the Hanging Great Wall, because we are simply running out of time. Today, Fu is very talkative, maybe because this is the last day of the journey, so he feels less pressured. He tell us a lot of stories about his family, his daughter, and how the romantic stories of how he tackle his wife. He also told us some local customs in marriage and funeral. Then, Annike tell us how English people normally look at marriage and love. We are very surprised when she tell us that England has divorce rate of nearly 50%. But many couples choose not to marry, because the English Law provide certain protections to both parties, hence it seems like marry or not is no longer a critical issue.
接着富师傅又跟我们大谈他的“夫妻相处之道”，说人们的第一印象往往是之后交往的关键；第一印象好的话，往往能够在日后容忍对方更多的缺点。拍拖的时候大家都尽量展示的自己的优点，所以冲突不会很大；一旦结婚后，一起生活的双方都会陆续展露自己的缺点，这时候若没有互相包容的话，肯定很难相处。
Fu then told us his "phylosophy for husbands and wives". He says that the first impression is very crucial, when we have good first impression on someone, we tend to forgive most of his/her weaknesses. When the couple is still dating, they tend to show the good sides of themselves, so normally there won't be much conflicts. But once they marry, they will try to show their weaknesses as well. Hence, if both parties are not prepare to understand each other and forgive the weakenesses of the loved one, they will face a lot of problems living together.

富师傅还语带玄机地说：“被爱比爱别人幸福，找对象还是找个爱自己的人比较好。”
Fu also said abstrusely,"To choose a life partner, it is always better to find a person that love you. A person being loved is always happier than a person that love other."

说着说着，富师傅又乘机“数落”我们没有注意到驾长途车的禁忌。原来我们很多时候都顾着看风景或者睡觉，没有跟他聊天来维持他的警觉，这是非常危险的。呵呵，看来我们真的有点懒惰。
Fu also told us that we (Sam, David and me) are actually not very careful while travelling for long journey, we are supposed to talk with the driver to make sure he is alert! However, most of the time we are either looking at the scenery, sleeping or keep quiet, which is very dangerous if the driver is not experienced enough. Haha, we are simply too lazy~~






这就是两位女生每次吃饭都要点的番茄炒蛋，我和志鹏都在想，有那么特别好吃吗？
This is "eggs with tomatoes" that the 2 gals like to order in almost every meal.

这5天的旅程中，我察觉到中国政府在征收过路费方面和大马政府不遑多让！除了高速公路外，普通长途公路也要收过路费，美其名叫作“贷款建路，收费还贷”。听富师傅说，政府从来没公布到底借了多少钱修路，收了多少过路费。我想，共产国家，还需要跟人民斤斤计较吗？这不是人民应有的福利吗？这跟资本主义国家有啥分别？
From the past 5 days, I observed that the Chinese government likes to collect toll fares, which is exactly the same as Malaysia! Besides highway, they also collect money for normal long distance road, which sounds ridiculous to me. The excuse to collect money from the people is that government is borrowing money from bank to build the road, so they collect money to pay back the bank. However, the government never announce how much is borrowed and how much money they had collected. Aren't this the welfare that a government should provide for their people, since China is a communist country? If the people have to pay for their welfare, what is the different between communist and capitalist?

凌成两点半，我们终于到达了兰州！想到明天（其实是今天）就要跟富师傅离别了，心里还真的有点不舍。车子驶入兰州市中心，我在焦切地寻找着可以入住的旅舍，若找不到我们就要睡在街边了。我敲了第一家旅舍的门，许久没有人回应，心里凉了半截，不会真的要睡街吧~~还好附近有一家旅舍灯还亮着，我赶紧吵醒了柜台小姐办理入住手续。终于，我们可以安心睡觉了。
It is almost 2:30am when we reached Lan Zhou! I feel a bit sad because we have to leave Fu tomorrow to continue our journey. At the same time, I am searching for a suitable hostel anxiously, it seems like not many hostel still open at this hour. Finally, we found one, but too bad nobody answer. "Are we going to sleep at the roadside tonight?"I am wondering. Luckily, there is another hostel nearby, I quickly wake up the sleeping ladies, and pay for 2 rooms. Finally, we can have good sleep~~

中国之旅-西北篇（7/4/2009）

早上出发到玉门关时，富师傅告诉我们，会有一位西方人加入我们的战团。在敦煌市区一间清真餐馆吃过早餐后，我们就到那位西方人的住所接他了。他是德国人，名叫Felix，是位精神病科医生。
This morning, we had our breakfast at a Muslim restaurant before going to Yu Men Pass. Fu told us that we are going to travel with a westerner, whom we met after having breakfast. He is a German named Felix. He is a psychiatric who loves to travel.


我们首先到达玉门关，看到的是一片荒凉的景色，以及几段断壁残垣。站在玉门关的遗迹上，我想象着当年的祖先是如何艰苦地在这片荒凉的地方建立起堡垒，保护自己的家园的。当年负责守关的将军，应该也曾经意气风发的站在这里发号施令吧？
We reached Yu Men Pass around 1030am, and what we can see is a wast wild land with a some ruins. I stand near the relic of Yu Men Pass, try to imagine how my ancestor build a pass at this desolated land, to protect themselves from the invasion of Xiong Nu (ancestor of Mongolian). I think that the general that assigned to govern this pass, must have been spiritedly ordering his army to perform duty at the place I am standing.

游览了玉门关，我们就到同样荒凉的长城遗址参观。虽然经过两千年的风沙吹袭后大半倒塌，但仍然能够依稀看到长城当年的风貌。我尝试想象当年在这里浴血奋战保卫家园的汉人，和为了改善生活条件而不断南下侵略的匈奴人，他们的生活是如何过的？当年站在城墙上奋勇杀敌的，又是一幅怎样的画面？这些为了建筑长城牺牲掉性命的人们，又是如何看待这个让炎黄子孙骄傲（或者自卑？）了几千年的建筑呢？
Next, we visit another relic in the wild land nearby - Great Wall of China. The wind has been blowing for thousands of years, but we still can see the rough shape of the wall after so many years. I am wondering how the Han (Chinese) people and the Xiong Nu people pass their life in such a place? Han people are fighting to protect their home from invasion, while Xiong Nu people are invading them for the sake of improving their living standard (because the southern China is more suitable for economic activities). How they look like when they are fighting against each other? It must be a cruel scene to see. How are the labours that build this Great Wall think about this building? Is this a proud or a shame to Chinese? (It is built because the Chinese not able to fight against Xiong Nu that equiped with sharp weapon and strong horses)




我们在中午离开了玉门关，往雅丹地貌公园出发去了！雅丹地貌公园又称魔鬼城，是由地壳运动后造就奇特地势，在经过上万年的风化后形成的。由于雅丹地貌占地很大，每个岩石看起来都很相似，置身其中非常容易迷路。因此古代许多旅行者进入这里后都出不来，久而久之就被认为是魔鬼聚居的地方，再也没有人敢来了。
We visited Ya Dan Landform (also called City of Devil) aroud 1pm. It is formed by millions years of wind erosion on the rock. Ya Dan Landform occupied a very vast area, and most of the landform looks the same, hence it is very easy to get lost when you are inside it. That is why in ancient time, there are many people who entered that area get lost and died. The local people call it the City of Devil, not many people willing to visit this place.






由于雅丹地貌公园非常大，我们得跟着旅游巴士行走，到了一处景点才下车观览。为了远离喧嚣的游客，我独自往地貌的深处行走，直到看不到人群为止。我尝试沿着峭壁旁的小路走上了其中一个小丘，在俯瞰地下的各式地貌。突然，我想起了《书剑恩仇录》的其中一幕，陈家洛在香香公主故乡的沙漠里迷了路，然后找到一座古城，莫非就是这里？呵呵~
We have to follow a bus to visit the Ya Dan Landform because it is very big in size. The bus will only stop at certain spots for us to take pictures. I tried to walk towards the center of the landforms until i can't see anyone. I tried to walk on the small path to reach the top of a hill, and view different types of landforms from top. Suddenly, it remind me the a story, where the main character Chen Jia Ruo is finding her lover Princess Xiang Xiang, but get lost in the desert. He end up entering an ancient city, maybe it is this place? Haha.... I am too imaginative~~











在地貌公园外摆设的摊子，有形形色色的石子，非常美丽。
The beautiful rocks sold at the entrance


他们说我留胡子比较好看，好像真正的背包客，所以我就留了。这是第八天的战绩。
David and Sam said that I look more handsome with beard and mustache, so I never shave for 8 days.

游览了雅丹魔鬼城后，我们到了售票处附近的博物馆，了解一下地貌的形成过程。接着，我们就和Felix一起返回敦煌了。Felix一路上都不多话，我想跟他多聊几句都困难。不过他25年前曾经来过马来西亚，知道这是个三大民族组成的国家，就问我华人和马来人的关系是否依旧紧张。我只好如实回答，只要种族主义继续存在，这种关系还是会紧张的。我也邀请他到马来西亚观光，毕竟25年后的马来西亚已经改变了很多。
We visited the museum nearby the entrance to understand more about how the landforms is formed. We leave Ya Dan Landform around 3pm. Felix is not a talkative person, so we do not have much conversation during the trip. However, he did visit Malaysia 25 years, and knows that Malaysia is formed by 3 main races. He is also interested to whether the relationship between Malays and Chinese is still in tense. I told him that as long as there is Chauvinism among the races, the relationship will still be tense. However, I do invite him to visit Malaysia, because it has changed a lot for the past 25 years.



Felix在敦煌市和我们分手了，他将会在晚上赶到乌鲁木齐。我心里在想，他连一句中文谢谢都不会说，还能走遍中国这么多地方，真服了他！回到旅舍前，我们还到了附近的敦煌电影城参观。顾名思义，这座电影城主要用作电影拍摄用途，建筑物美轮美奂，但在外头看看拍拍照就行了，不必买门票参观（除非你真的很想进去看看）。
Felix is going to Urumuchi after we seperate at Dun Huang city. I think that he is very brave, because he can travel to so many places in China without knowing how to say "thank you" in Mandarin! We visited the Dun Huang ancient city before going back to hostel. It is made for the purpose of filming, so everything looks new and "modern". We agreed that it is not worth to pay for tickets to enter, so we just take photos from outside.




回到旅舍后，我们没有马上休息，而是选择在附近走走。这里的景色别有一番滋味，尤其是在天气开始从热转凉的傍晚漫步欣赏风景，非常写意！我们参观了附近的杏花园、民居、骆驼棚及鸣沙山入口处。
We walk around the houses and gardens around our hostel, it has amazingly relaxing, especially when the weather started to change from hot to cold in the evening. We also visited the entrance of Ming Sha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring


这里的骆驼仿佛经过特别训练，只要一举起相机，它们就会望向镜头，呵呵~~
The camels will look at you whenever you try to snap a photo, it looks like they have been trained!

杏花



鸣沙山月牙泉入口处 Entrance of Ming Sha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring


他们说，留长胡子的我看起来像强盗

散步完回到旅舍后，发现前天在柜台见到的那位英国女生正在和富师傅及旅舍的员工在讨论一些事，我们便走进去了解情况。原来是她想付一些钱搭我们的顺风车到嘉峪关去，然后再搭车去马蹄寺。我们稍作商量后便决定让他同行了，能多认识朋友，旅途上也会更加精彩。这时候我才知道，原来她的名字叫Annike。
While walking back to the hostel, we found that the English gal that we met 2 days ago, is discussing something with Fu and the workers in hostel. It seems like she wants to follow our taxi to Jia Yu Pass tomorrow, then take a bus to Ma Ti Si. We only have a short discussion before agreeing to travel with her, it is always good to know new friends while travelling! Now only I know her name is Annike.


这次我们不会忘记了！左边是掌柜土豆和富师傅。
We won't forget to take photo this time! It is Charley and Fu from left.

中国之旅-西北篇（6/4/2009）

今天是出门6天以来最迟起床的一天，也是我睡得最香的一天。洗漱完毕，我们到了旅舍附近的沙漠、花园和民居走动。这里的民居非常有特色，就像每次在戏剧里头看到的传统中国民居，每家每户门口都贴上春联的那种。附近的花园也很美，到处开满了杏花。
Today, we wake up very late, and it is the best sleep I ever have for past 6 days. We visited the houses and gardens nearby the youth hostel. The houses here are very special, it looks like the traditional houses that we see in movies, where you can find New Year Scroll at every door.


当我们步行到沙漠时，随手拿起一堆沙，感觉好像海滩的沙一样，只不过这里的沙是冰冷的。接着我们就在沙漠上玩起沙来，也不知什么时候小沙子进入我的相机，恶梦就开始了。
While walking on the dune nearby, we grab some sands on hand, it actually feel like the sands we get in beach. We play around at the desert, without realizing that the sands go into my camera, and the nightmare begins.







回到旅舍已经十点多了，我赶紧换好衣服，顺便检查随身文件和相机，准备出门去莫高窟了。这时候才发现，我的相机进沙子了，开启不了了！天啊，我连九寨沟都还没进去，怎么相机在这时候发生故障？土豆告诉我说，这救不了了，小地方的相机店也修不了，只能轻轻敲打，希望把沙子敲出来。去莫高窟的路上我就这样敲呀敲，却始终没把沙子敲出来。后来我也就放弃了，反正我出来是要玩的，不是来拍照的。可能老天要我用心看风景吧，相机坏就坏了，别让它影响心情！
We go back hostel around 10am, and in a split second we are ready to go out! We are going to Mo Gao Caves today, which is one of the highlight in our trip. However, when I try to turn on my camera, I found that it is not functioning anymore, the sands go in to my camera! OMG, I haven't even take a picture of Jiu Zhai Gou, I can't lose my camera here! But Charley told me that there is no way to revive it, because the technician here is not good enough to repair it, the only way is to knock the camera lightly, hoping the sands can be knoced out.

I tried to knock the camera for a long time, but in the end i give up. I am here to travel, so I won't let the camera spoilt my mood! Maybe this is the message to me, asking me to view the scenery by heart, not by camera, haha...

超级大盘鸡 Super big bowl of chicken

出发到莫高窟的路上，我们进了一间参观解决午餐，一看菜单就下了一跳，脸上都露出了一副寒酸样。后来在富师傅的建议下，我们叫了一个大盘鸡，为了省钱连面都省下了。结果证明我们的选择是正确的，这大盘鸡不但好吃，而且真的很大盘，4个人吃来吃去都吃不完，真庆幸没有要面食。
On the way to Mo Gao Caves, we found a restaurant and decided to have our lunch there. We are all stunned by the price while looking at the menu, our expressions tell that we are so poor and shabby. In the end, Fu advised us to order a pot of chicken, but for the sake of money we do not order noodles. Eventually it proves that we made the right decision, because the pot of chicken is simply too much for 4 of us! We spent a long time to finish it.

莫高窟又称为千佛洞，里头藏着许多珍贵的佛教艺术壁画，是由前秦开始到宋元许多朝代的工匠艺术家呕心沥血建成的。明清两代基本上不再扩张洞窟，也不进行艺术创作，而是以修复前朝的作品为主。由于明朝时期实行锁关政策，丝绸之路没落，敦煌和莫高窟也渐渐荒芜了。1900年，道士王圆箓在莫高窟发现"藏经洞"，洞内藏有写经、文书和文物四万多件，此后莫高窟更为引人注目。 王道士更在这里建了一座道观。
Mo Gao Caves is also known as "Caves of Thousands Buddha", there are a lot of Buddhism mural inside. The caves are built from Qian Qin (~AD 300) dynasty to Yuan Dynasty (~1380), by the hardwork of many artisan. From Ming Dynasty onwards, there are no new caves discovered, because most of the artisans focus on repairing old work rather than creating new one. Ming Dynasty implemented closed-gate policy, no trading with foreigners is allowed, so the silk road is declining seriously. Dun Huang and Mo Gao Caves also enter a dark period since then. In year 1900, a Taoist priest name Wang discovered the caves that store 40000 over scriptures and drawings, which caused Mo Gao Caves attracting more and more visitors. Wang also build a Taoist temple nearby.




进入莫高窟需要跟导游，否则普通人自己看是看不懂的。我们跟的导游小姐叫小王，说得一口流利的普通话。她带领我们游览了10个洞窟，每到一个洞窟都会详细解说这个洞窟壁画的艺术特征，如何分辨作品的年代，甚至解说了很多我们不容易察觉的细节。印象最深刻的是她说到从隋朝佛祖像身上披的袈裟上看，下垂的幅度和线条凸显出这个时代出产的丝绸非常柔软，而且是上佳的质地。这样观察入微的艺术鉴赏能力，实在是让人叹为观止。
To enter Mo Gao Caves, we need to follow a specific tour guide, as the tour guide will explain in details how to appreciate the mural. Our tour guide named Xiao Huang, she speaks Mandarin fluently. She bring us to visit 10 caves, explaining the stories and information of respective cave patiently. She even teach us how to appreciate the art and how to identify the era of respective mural. The most impressive part is when she bring us to a Buddha statue made in Sui Dynasty, she told us that the robe is sagging gently, showing that the silk is actually very soft and of good quality. I was amazed by her ability to appreciate art in such an observant way!

我最喜欢的洞窟讲述的是一个佛教故事，是佛陀前世以肉身喂食饿虎的故事。喜欢它的故事感人，喜欢壁画的表达方式充满美感，更喜欢故事背后的慈悲胸怀。是什么让人有这种慈悲的力量呢？由于莫高窟里头部允许拍照，我们只能用眼看，用脑记，用心感受了。
The cave that I like it the most, tells the story of how Buddha in the past life sacrifice himself to feed a hungry female tiger, so the tiger and her babies can survive. The story is touching, the mural is drawn aesthetically and the benevolence of Buddha inspires me. That is why I like it so much. I am wondering, what is the reason that caused a person to be like Buddha? Since it is prohibited to take picture in Mo Gao Caves, we can only see it by our eyes, remember it by our brain and feel it by our heart.

由于不是旅游旺季，莫高窟只开放10个洞窟；若在旺季时还可以留到别的导游那里多参观几个不同的洞窟呢。我们尝试跟着其他日本游客和西方游客参观，结果发现都是一样的洞窟，只好放弃了。
During the peak season, Mo Gao Caves will open more than 20 caves, we can actually follow different tour guides to visit more caves (1 tour guide only visit 10 caves, but they do visit different caves). However, now is still in low season, we try to follow other Japanese and western tourists, but end up visiting same caves, sigh~~

导游也带我们参观了“盗墓者们”的特别档案室，里头记录了当年（20世纪初）外国探险者如何千辛万苦到达敦煌，游说王道士卖出了一批又一批珍贵无比的经卷。有的人买不到经卷，就到洞窟里头把壁画拓了下来。面对这些外国人的行径，我感到非常愤怒，却又无可奈何，因为他们都是用钱买下来的，说起来还是“正当手段”。要怪就怪当时清朝政府不重视文物保护，王道士不识货，或者怪中国人本身根本没有珍惜对历史文物的观念！也不知道这些“盗宝者”的后人来参观莫高窟的话，会有什么感想？
The tour guide take us to visit the museum as well, which documented how foreigners enter the Mo Gao Caves in early 20th century and lobby Wang (the Taoist priest) to sell the scriptures and art works he found. Those who failed to buy any scriptures from Wang, choose to take away the mural in the caves. I feel so angry when listening to the act of these foreigners (I feel that I am a China man now!), yet I feel helpless, because they actually bought it "legally" from Chinese! It will be more logical to blame the ignorance of Ching Dynasty and Chinese people towards the cultural relics during that time. If the offsprings of these foreigners visit Mo Gao Caves, and found that their ancestors are criticized in that way, what will the think?


离开莫高窟时，我看到了一则告示，说是一位收藏莫高窟经卷的日本人死后，把所有经卷归还了莫高窟。人间还是有明白事理的人，我不禁敬佩这位日本人，更希望有朝一日，莫高窟藏经洞的经卷可以回到自己的家里。
While stepping out of Mo Gao Caves, I saw a notice mentioning that a Japanese returned all the scriptures of Mo Gao Caves he own back to the Chinese government, after he passed a way. I am salluting this person in my heart, and I hope that one day in future, all the scriptures and murals will be able to return to their home.

回到旅舍，我们便兴致勃勃准备去鸣沙山看月牙泉了。由于旅舍里月牙泉很近，我们决定走路去。路上遇到一个牵骆驼的人，在富师傅的讨价还价下，我们得以60元骑上骆驼来回鸣沙山，省却了买门票的钱，呵呵~
After returning to hostel, we are fully prepared to visit Ming Sha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring! The hostel is very near to Crescent Moon Spring, so we decided to walk. On the way, we met a man leading along a few camels, Fu suggested us to ride on the camel so we won't have to walk. After short bargaining, we agreed with the price of 60 yuan to ride on camel to and fro Ming Sha Mountain, we do not need to buy the ticket as well, haha....

骆驼始终非常强壮的动物，坐在上面感觉非常安全。可是我骑的那只却很爱跑，一直撞向前方的同伴，让我有点担心自己会被摔下来。更好笑的是，原来骆驼会一面走一面大便小便的~　
Camel is strong, so it gives a sense of security to ride on it. However, the camel I ride on is very naughty, it always try to run and knock on the camels in front! I am so worry that I will fall down~~ In addition to it, camels shits and pees when they walk... OMG!





到了鸣沙山，才发现原来有好一段路是骆驼很难上去的，需要自己爬，天啊！我们花了将近40分钟才爬到接近山顶的地方，途中不知停了多少轮，加上沙漠风沙很大，吹得我们随时都有掉下山的感觉，哈哈。好不容易到达山顶，马上被神奇的月牙泉吸引住了。更新奇的是鸣沙山面向太阳的一面滚烫异常，另一面却是冷的。
We reached Ming Sha Mountain shortly, and found that the camels can't actually climb up to the top, so we have to do it ourselves! We spent nearly 40 minutes to climb up after a few stops. Since the wind is very strong, it bring along tons of sands, which make the climbing even more difficult. We were amazed by the beautiful Crescent Moon Spring. It is strange that the side of dune facing Sun is very hot, while the other side is very cold, haha~~






在山上逗留了近30分钟后，我们终于甘心下山了。
After staying 30 minutes up the dune, we finally left.







回到旅舍，我们就迫不及待的开餐了。土豆为富师傅准备了丰盛的晚餐，富师傅便偷偷把一些羊肉装进小碗里递给了我们。面对富师傅的盛情，我们都非常感动，没想到萍水相逢的一位司机一路上会对我们照顾有加。或许他说得对，人都是感情的动物，相处久了就会有感情。再回头看看土豆一家人围坐在一起吃晚餐，那种温馨的场面，似曾相识。这一餐吃的很温暖。
We are hunting for food immediately after we reached the hostel. Charley prepared a deluxe dinner for Guru Fu, Fu bring along some delicious mutton to share with us secretly. We were touch by the act of Fu, although we just meet each other a few days ago, but he always take good care of us. Maybe this is why he always tell us, human is make of flesh, we tend to have feelings on each other after staying together for some time.

It is very warm to look at Charley's family, who are having their dinner surrouding a long table. It reminds me the feelings I had long long time ago. This is a very warming dinner~

我们点的晚餐 Our dinner

土豆一家吃饭的情景，加上灯光效果，很美是吗？
Charley and his family having dinner, warm and sweet, isn't it?

吃饱饭，洗了澡，稍作休息后，富师傅建议带我们到敦煌市区游车河，我们当然同意咯！我们在敦煌市兜了一圈，迷了一些路后才回到旅舍休息。
After having dinner and taking bath, we take a short rest before Fu bring us out for a ride in Dun Huang city. We spent sometime to look around this tourist-based city, get lost a little bit before back to the hostel for a good rest.

中国之旅-西北篇（5/4/2009）

一早起身，我就被外头的美丽景色吸引住了，赶紧拿下相机，穿好衣服就冲出去派日出了。
Early morning, I was amazed by the fantastic view outside. I quickly grabbed my camera, put on thick clothes, rush out to capture the moment of glory -- sunrise!





今天的早餐藏族的馍馍（馒头）、糌粑和马奶茶。我终于有机会可以学习搓藏巴叻！可是搓阿搓，吊在地上的很多，却总搓不出正确的形状。后来看到丹切修了一手，再看看志鹏的手势后，总算能搓出个像样的糌粑叻，哈哈！
We are served Zang Ba, steamed bread and tea as breakfast. Finally, I have a chance to learn how to mix Zang Ba! But the more i try to mix it, the more Zang Ba dropped on the floor. After seeing so many failures from us, Dan Qie finally show us how Tibetans mix Zang Ba skillfully. In the end, I manage to mix my own Zang Ba, and it is delicious!


搓糌粑的模样 How I look when i try to mix the Zang Ba

左起：丹切、我、富师傅。

左起：思嫣、丹切大儿子、我。Sam, Dan Qie's eldest son and me.

另一班旅客也起床了，拍过日出后一起吃早餐。领头的司机和富师傅谈了起来，原来他们都是要到拉萨去的。我们路上听说西藏禁止外国人出入的消息得到了进一步证实，那位司机也不建议我们进西藏，甚至连甘南一带也不建议我们去。看来我们真的要绕道走远路去九寨沟了。说着说着，富师傅跟我们提起他也是少数民族，是曾经显赫一时的满族人！他的姓氏是叶赫富察氏，祖辈是镶黄旗人。他非常遗憾现在满族人很多都不会自己的语言和文字了，包括自己也被彻底汉化了，那该是多么痛心的一件事。
The other group of visitors wake up almost the same time, we have our breakfast together. The driver start talking with Fu, he told him that they are actually heading to Lhasa. He advise us not to go to Tibet at this moment as many foreigners are being sent out of Tibet after being caught. He even advise us not to take the Gan Nan route to Jiu Zhai Gou, as there are many police checking for foreigners.

In the conversation, Fu also told us that he is actually from the ethnic group of Manchu. His ancestors are the people who rule China (Qing Dynasty) a few hundreds years ago. However, nowadays not many Manchu people know their own language and words. He is very sad that he can't even speak his own language, because he is totally Chinese-ized!

吃饱了早餐，看够了早晨美景，我们离开了这个美丽的青海湖。昨晚的一切，仿佛如梦境一般；接下来的旅程，又是另一个梦境的开始。
After finishing the delicious breakfast, we left the beautiful Qing Hai Lake. What had happened yesterday, is like a dream. Starting from now, it will be a begining of another dream.






左图：海拔3811公尺的橡皮山 Left: Xiang Pi Mountain, 3811 metres high above sea level.
右图：藏民都喜欢把经幡挂在高山上，风吹过就会把经幡转移权，这也表示念了一遍经文，多了一份祝福。Right: The Tibetans like to hang cloths with scriptures on it on the mountain. They believed that when the wind blow, it will turn the cloth one round, which means they had chanted the scriptures for once, and they are blessed once as well.









一幅美景，一辆的士，一个远眺的司机，很有感觉！
Magnificent view, small taxi and lonely driver.









茶卡盐湖 Caka Salt Lake

在前往德令哈的途中，我们还经过了著名的茶卡盐湖。没想到不在行程计划内的景点，也让我们这样“顺便"给参观过了，呵呵。中午12点半，我们到达了西部重镇德令哈，吃了简单的擀面条午餐。没想到这个城市规模如此小，都是些工业区，人口也不多。但想到要在这么缺水的地方建立城市，也的确很不容易。
On the way to De Ling Ha, we passed by the famous Caka Salt Lake. This is a tourist spot that we never planned to visit initially, but we are lucky to see it now. We reached De Ling Ha at 1230pm, and had a simple but delicious lunch. De Ling Ha is a very important city in North-West China, but it is actually very small, most of the buildings are factories! I think, it must be very difficult to build a city in such a harsh place with limited water.

美味可口的擀面条！到现在我还回味无穷~~ Delicious Xi Ning Noodles

都兰的寺，给都兰的人。

离开德令哈市不久，我们发现了一个外星人遗址！据富师傅说，当年这里刚开发时，有人发现了这块上万年的岩石，里头竟然有着现代的水龙头！后来很多专家学者研究后都得不到结论，所以就尽管叫它外星人遗址了。这块石头是仿照的，真正的那块要深入荒原才能找到。
We found a monument of alien not far from De Ling Ha! Guru Fu told us when the government start to develop this place, they found a huge rock with more than ten thousands years old. Inside this rock, there are modern pipes! After many years of investigation, nobody can explain what is the reason, so they called it "The Monument of Alien". The one in photo is a made made version of actual rock, which is situated deep into the wilderness.






从青海湖往西到德令哈，都是一片荒原。德令哈在往北走到大柴旦，则是更加荒凉的黄土高原。这些景色都可以从照片看到，但真实的景色比照片的感染力大得多了。站在这么荒凉的土地上，才感受到大自然的大气。相机根本派不出这么大气的景色，只有用心欣赏最实际！
From Qing Hai Lake to De Ling Ha, we can see a lot of wild land with limited plantations. From De Ling Ha to Da Chai Dan, the view is even desolate. The photos show great sceneries, but the actual scenery is even more infectious! Standing on the wild land, you can feel the greatness of the nature, which is impossible to be captured by camera. The only way to appreciate it is by your heart!








一路上，我们都有被骗的感觉，因为景色美得像画一样，太假了！我甚至有种错觉，是不是有人把一幅画放在上面让我们拍照，呵呵~若不是身临其境，我真不相信这是真的。
We feel like we are cheated, because the scenery is simply too beautiful, fantastic! It is like somebody putting a fake drawing at the back to let us take pictures! Haha, if I never see it with my own eyes, I swear I won't believe that this is true.












这不是人间仙境是什么？ Looks like fairy land, isn't it?

下午5点，我们到达了大柴旦，一个同样荒凉但是重要的西北城市。富师傅很仔细看了几间参观后，选了一间看起来比较干净，而且他曾经光顾过的餐厅吃晚餐。进了餐厅，突然听到电视上播着英文戏，才发觉自己已经好久没有看电视，没有听到家乡熟悉的语言了。
5pm, we reached the Da Chai Dan, another important but desolate city in North West China. Fu walk through a few restaurants, and choose one that looks cleaner to have our dinner. He told us that he came to this restaurant before, and it is safe to eat here, haha. While entering the restaurant, I hear some English words from the TV, then I realized that I never watch TV for days, never heard languages from Malaysia for days!






这是当年驰骋大漠南北的雌雄蒙面大侠！
They are the once famous masked heroes in desert~

像不像在一幅画的前面拍照？ I am taking picture in front of a picture!

经过12个小时的长途跋涉，我们终于到达了敦煌！由于已经是晚上10点了，富师傅费了一些时间才找到月泉山庄青年旅舍。登记个人资料时，我发现我的名字上访有个英文名字，身边刚好又有个金发女生，这个人该就是她吧。于是就跟她打了个招呼，说我们是从马来西亚来的。没想到之后我们竟然回忆起旅行了6天，这个缘分还真奇特。
After 12 hours of tiring journey, we finally reached Dun Huang at 10pm! We stay in Charley Johng's Dune Guesthouse recommended by Fu. While registering at the counter, I found an English name on top of mine, at the same time there is a blonde girl standing beside me, I guess the name belongs to her. We had a short conversation, and I told her that we are from Malaysia. We totally never expect that in future we are going to spend 6 days of journey with her, it is our fate to meet each other!

月泉山庄给人一种像家的感觉，非常舒适温馨。掌柜是个温文尔雅的男生，说起话来特别温柔。我们住了一个3人间，其他房子还住着2个斯洛伐克的女生，一对法国夫妇和他们的小孩，以及刚才见到的那位英国女生。
Charley Johng's Dune Guesthouse give us a feeling of home. The boss is a polite guy who speak very softly. We stay in a room of 3 beds. There are 2 Slovakian girls, a French couple with kids and the English girl staying in same hostel as well.

敦煌的夜晚非常寒冷，但我们的心却是温热的。这几天经历了那么多事情，每天都仿佛有着无穷的惊喜，真有资讯爆炸的感觉！清算了这几天的账目后，我抱着对明天的满怀期待入睡了。
The night in Dun Huang is very cold, but our heart is very warm. There are simply too much exciting experience for the past 5 days, like information explosion to us! After counting all the expenses for past few days, I went to bed with lots of hope for tomorrow.

中国之旅-西北篇（4/4/2009）

西凉驿门前空地 In front of Xi Liang Inn

一大清早，我们就起身享受刷牙的酷刑，然后步行到莫家街用早餐。这一餐吃的是当地著名美食--擀面条。接着，我们就买了一大袋水果给西凉驿的工作人员，小包甜品给富师傅和一些锅贴给自己。
We wake up early in the morning to "enjoy" the tough moment of brushing teeth under freezing weather. Then we walk to Mo Jia Street to have our delicious breakfast. We bought some fruits for the people working in Xi Liang Inn, a small bag of biscuits/cakes for Guru Fu, and some dessert for ourselves.



左：擀面条 右：羊杂汤 Left: Noodles in Xi Ning Right: Organs of lamp in soup

10点钟，富师傅准时到达，我们出发了！临走时，元外还“深情款款”的送我们离开，直到上了车才发现我们竟然忘了跟这么重要的人拍照！我们到兰州火车站把之前买的票退掉后，就开始了这趟美丽又让人期待万分的旅程。青海湖，我来了！
Fu arrived at the hostel at 10am sharply. Before leaving the hostel, Yuan Wai give all of us a warm farewell, but we forget to take picture with him! I am so regret about this. After returning the tickets to Lan Zhou to the railway office, we geared up to the next beautiful and amazing journey. Qing Hai Lake, here we come~~

我们三个都是生平第一次看到下雪，激动的猛拍照！
This is the first time we see snow in our life!

右：是不是好像什么歌手出专辑时拍的海报？Right: This looks like a poster for a singer

在中国的加气站，乘客是必须下车等候司机加气的，奇怪吗？
In China, we have to wait outside the gas station while the driver refill gas, isn't it weird?

富师傅说我们很有福气，因为昨天早上下过了雪，今天应该不会下了，路上的雪景就不美了。没想到今天凌晨还真的再下了一次雪，那待会儿一定看到非常美丽的雪景！我们听了兴奋不已，怎么长得这么大没见过雪景，一下子就让我们看个够了，呵呵。但是好事多磨，车子开了一段路就被收费站的人给截停了，说是前面下过雪，不安全。富师傅为了安全起见，到处打听前面的路段状况，判断能够通行后决定开车继续走。
Fu told us that we are very lucky. Since it is snowing yesterday morning, he expects today to have clear weather since snowing for 2 concecutive days is rarely happen in Xi Ning. If that is the case the scenery will not be that nice. However, this it snows again morning! We are expecting a magnificent view in front now. Well, there is a saying that, good thing does not come smoothly. We were stopped by the officers at a toll gate, they advised us not to take that road as it is very slippery after snowing. Fu is a cautious person, he stopped the car beside the road, and starts to chit chat with drivers coming from the opposite direction to understand the real situation. Finally, he decided to take the risk after listening to feedbacks from a few drivers.

我们被截停在收费站 We were stopped in front of the toll.

由于太阳刚出来，路面上的雪开始融化，形成了一阵阵的水气往上飘，仿佛来到了仙境一般！一路上的雪景实在太美了，让图片告诉你他的魅力吧！
The sun starts to rise, causing the snow to melt. The evaporated water make the scenery looks like a fairy land, wow! Let the photos tell you how fascinating is the scenery!
















知道右边那个人在做什么吗？Do you know what David is doing right now?










右：这就是著名的日月山 Right: This is the famous Ri Yue (Sun and Moon) Mountain

途中，我们经过了著名的日月山和倒淌河。在日月山我们没付任何门票，因为在外面就能够拍到美景了。而且路上的景色也比日月山美多了。
We passed by the famous Ri Yue Mountain and Backstream River, but we never pay for the tickets. We can actually snap a relatively good picture without buying the ticket. Yet, the scenery we have seen on the way is much better than the Ri Yue Mountain.






下午五点左右，我们到达了青海湖，马上就被壮丽的景色给迷住了。由于西宁现在还处在初春的天气，青海湖周边的冰刚刚开始融化。大风把湖中心的冰吹向湖的一面，导致青海湖出现了一边仍然结冰、一边碧波荡漾的美景。
We reach Qing Hai Lake around 5pm, and stun by the magnificent view. Xi Ning is still in the begining of Spring, so the ice at the edges of Qing Hai Lake starts to melt. When the strong wind blow the unmelted ice at the centre to the edge of the lake, we can see one side of the lake is covered by water while another side covered by ice!



青海湖边游说游客骑牦牛拍照的藏民。这当然不是免费的！
Some Tibetans are persuading tourists to ride on their wild yak and take photos. Of course, it will not be free!

富师傅把车开到了一位藏族人的家里，我们今晚就住在这里了！本来我还以为要住帐篷的，没想到现在藏民们的家都是砖头做的，看来政府的确帮助这里的藏人改善生活了。这家的主人叫丹切，为人和蔼，但感觉上有点滑头。富师傅说，中国人有句话：“天不怕地不怕，就怕藏人说汉话！”，因为藏人和汉人旅客接触多后，开始会精打细算，接下来就会像很多鬼点子赚游客的钱，变得一点都不纯朴了。
Fu took us to a Tibetan house beside Qing Hai Lake, we are going to spend our night here! At first, I thought that we need to stay in a Tibetan camp, but end up staying in a brick house! The Chinese government did a good job to improve the living standard of Tibetan here, they all afford to build a more comfortable house now.

The owner of this house is Dan Qie, a friendly and humourous guy. Fu told us that the Chinese are quite worried that more and more Tibetan understand Mandarin, because the Tibetan will start to think various of ways to get money from tourists. It is always easier to get money in this way compared to their traditional way of livestocking. In the end, they will be cunning and money minded.

左：这是丹切家新买的炉子，听说以前是用泥巴糊成的。右：烧水烧饭都是用牛羊粪
Left: Modern stove used in Dan Qie house. Before buying this, they have to build one from clay.
Right: They cook everything without charcoal, they use cow/sheep dunk!

安顿好我们后，丹切和他的夫人捧了一种叫“藏巴”的食物让我们尝尝。糌粑是用青稞草、酥油、奶酪和茶撮合搅拌后形成的食物，热量非常高。要搅拌糌粑可要一点功夫，但志鹏倒是学得很快！我吃了一口就爱上它了！
After settling down, Dan Qie and his wife bring us a type of food called "Zang Ba", which is a high energy food with mixture of barley grass, ghee, cheese and tea. It needs to be mixed evenly first, and this require skills! We are happy that David able to learn it very fast. I fall in love with this food the first time I taste it!

志鹏拌糌粑时的神情 David is enjoy mixing the ingredients of Zang Ba

吃完了糌粑，我们就全副武装到附近的青海“冰湖”游玩去了。
After eating Zang Ba, we are fully equipped, and it is time to visit the "ice lake" beside us!







这只猫很喜欢跟着我 The cat likes to follow me

晚上，丹切家又来了另一批客人，听口音该是来自江南一带的中国游客。吃饱了丹切夫人和女儿精心炮制的晚餐后，我们就围坐在客厅闲聊，听丹切的女儿唱歌。丹切的女儿不但长得好看，还有一副动人的嗓子，她的歌声把所有的人都震慑住了。我想，如果她在草原上唱的话，一定会更动听！接着，我们就各自在附近走动，欣赏青海湖夜景去了。我独自一人走在湖边，感受那让人窒息的宁静。那种孤寂的美，让我深深着迷，恨不得融入整个大自然。宇宙的原始状态该是这样的吧？
Another gang of tourists come at night, probably from the South of China. We had a brilliant dinner prepared by mistress and daughter of Dan Qie. Dan Qie's daughter is very good in singing, her voice is so charming and powerful! I bet her voice will be even charming if she sings in the open field!

I walk along the lake alone after that, trying to feel the beauty of absolute silent in Qing Hai Lake. I am mad about beauty of loneliness and quietness in Qing Hai Lake at night, I hope I can dive into it forever! Is this what we see in the dawn of Universe?


两位勤恳的藏族女子，丹切夫人（左）和女儿（右）。
Two hardworking lady, mistress (left) and daughter (right) of Dan Qie.

晚上，我们4人就躲在热得像炉子一样的房子里睡觉。外头冰天雪地，里头温热如火，这种享受实在是人间天堂！
While it is freezingly cold outside, we sleep in a very warm room with hot stove burning. What a pleasure~~

中国之旅-西北篇（3/4/2009）

一早起身，发觉地上湿湿的，就以为下雨了。我问了刚刷完牙回来的嫣，她也说该是下雨了吧，这么冷。我们刷牙的时候，简直就是碰到水手就麻痹了，漱完口连嘴巴都麻了！
The floor is wet when i step out in the morning, so I think that it must be raining not long ago. I asked Sam who just brushed her teeth, she said, should be raining yesterday night. The weather is damn cold, we can't stop shivering while washing our face. The hands are frozen by cold water, mouth is also numb after brushing teeth.

把身体裹得像粽子一样后，我勇敢的踏出第一步，下楼找老板去了。向元外了解了中午的行程后，我随口问了一句：“昨天下雨了吧？”结果换来一阵狂笑：“傻瓜，是下雪啦！什么下雨！”我顿时恍然大悟，原来地上看到的白色物体竟然是雪！没想到生平第一次见到下雪竟然是在这样不经意的情况下发生的！我赶紧抓了一堆雪，兴奋地跑上楼让鹏和嫣看，隐约还听到元外在喊：“高原地区，不要剧烈运动，小心高原反应~”
After "packing" myself with lots of clothes, I bravely walk out the warm room to find the boss for information of our trip to Tar Lamasery. When I asked him,"Is it raining yesterday night?" He laughed at me loudly,"It is snowing! Not raining!" With doubts in my mind, I turn around and found some white objects on the floor. OMG, it is snow! This is the first time I see snow, it happened so abruptly！I quickly grabbed some snow and run up the stairs to show David and Sam my great findings. Yuan Wai's voice is still echoing in the air,"Please don't run, you are in highland, don't try to exercise too much!"


马来西亚风味的自备美味早餐 Self made breakfast, Malaysian flavour~~

洗漱完毕，吃过了早餐，我们就出发到附近的莫家街了，这里可是西宁出了名的美食街。接着我们就在西宁市中心闲逛，看看这里的人、店、车，也逛了附近的一间书局。在途中，我们也乘机尝了这里著名的美食--酸奶。原来这和我们常吃的Yogurt是同一样东西，只不过这里的酸奶特别香，也特别新鲜，我爱上了它~~
We went to the famous Mo Jia Street nearby, it is full of delicious food. We walk along the streets in Xi Ning, looking at the people, shops and car. We tried one of the famous local food here as well, it is called "sour milk", which is actually yogurt. It taste much better than the normal yogurt we buy in Malaysia, I love it~~

莫家街 Mo Jia Street

中午12点，我们到了名闻遐迩的东关清真寺参观。由于是星期五，很多清真徒在准备礼拜，我们也只能在旁边观看。这里的清真寺和马来西亚的清真寺分别很大，感觉上比较古朴，也更具土耳其建筑的特色。这里清真徒的服饰也跟马来西亚的清真徒不太一样，可能是我们的清真建筑和服饰都比较新颖吧。
We arrived at the famous Dong Guan Mosque around 12, seeing many people preparing for Friday prayer. The mosque here is very different from what we can see in Malaysia, it looks more like Turkey style. The Muslim here also wear different attire compare to Malaysian, maybe Malaysian Muslim looks more modern, haha...


东关清真寺 Dong Guan Mosque　

午餐：驴子肉！ Lunch: Donkey meat

午餐时刻，我们吃了一顿难忘的驴子肉。那碗有点臭酸味的甜品，到现在都让我难以释怀。
The most memorable lunch in my live -- donkey meat and weird dessert (sweet and sour, taste like rotten food).

回到旅舍，发现到载我们到塔尔寺的司机已经在等候了，真守时！大家都称司机叫富师傅，因为在这里“师傅”是对别人的尊称（就像我们称呼“先生”一样），熟络一点的则直呼小名。富师傅40多岁，看起来像饱经人生事故历练的人，却也很厚道。我们很快就熟络起来了，他也告诉了我们很多关于中国的事情，和许多载客的经验。他说最让他印象深刻的是一位美国华侨的话。那位华侨说，美国的护照上写着，“无论你到哪里，亚美利坚帝国都是你强硬的后盾！”若有一天中国强大了，在海外的华侨也感觉到腰杆子硬了，这是多么让人兴奋的事！我听着富师傅的话，感受着这片土地上的中国人是如何期待中国的强大。
We reached hostel around 1pm and found that the driver is waiting for us there, he is very punctual on time! Everyone called the driver Guru Fu, because Guru is a respectful way the local people call others (just like we call other people Mr/Ms/Mrs). Only close friends will call each other by nick name. Fu is about 40++ years old, he looks like a tough sailor. On the way to Tar Lamasery, he told us a lot about China, and the interesting experiences he had as a taxi driver. He told us that he met a Chinese from USA few years ago. This guy told him that there is a statement in USA passport saying that the US government will be their strong support wherever they go. If one day China emerged as a superpower, Chinese from all over the world will enjoy the benefit as well, then we can say proudly,"We are Chinese!" I listen to Fu's words, trying to understand how a local Chinese feel when their country is developing rapidly.




左上一：一看到车子经过就马上蜂拥而至的导游。 其他：塔尔寺外景
Top Left: Tour guides that flooded all the car passed by. Others: Tar Lamasery

到了塔尔寺，我们马上就看到了一幅“奇景”。一大群年轻男女试图把我们的车围堵住，然后极尽殷勤的说服我们请他们当导游。我们三人很有默契的都不作声，让富师傅去招架，结果还真地把他们给一一说退了。最难缠的还是那几位用藏语跟我们掏钱的藏族老妇~~
Finally, we reached Tar Lamasery, and shocked by the crowd of youngsters trying to surround us. They tried very hard to pursuade us to hire them as tour guide, so we can understand more while visiting the Tar Lamasery. Three of us keep silent, Fu is the one that answer to all of the pursuasion. In fact, he is very good in dealing with this, and we end up never hiring any tour guides, haha. But the old Tibetan ladies that try to beg money from us, still following us throughout the journey, phew~~






接着，我们也不买门票，就沿着塔尔寺的周边建筑观看，一边注意听其它团队的导游解说。想不到这一招也真管用，就这样让我们听了不少免费解说，也省下了不少门票钱。其实买不买门票的分别不大，顶多只是多看一些寺内的建筑设计而已。
We never buy ticket to enter the temple as well, because we feel that it is not worth. We only walk along the buildings and listen to what the tour guides (hired by other people) say, it works! This save us lots of money, thanks to Fu!









离开了塔尔寺，回到旅舍时已经是下午5点多了。我刚进入梦乡，就被兴奋的志鹏吵醒了，说要到什么中心百货广场看藏族表演。我心里嘀咕着百般不愿意，但还是起身跟着他们走了，毕竟是出来旅行，不能因为懒惰而错过任何精彩的片断。结果匆匆吃了晚餐后，我们在绵绵细雨下走了近一个小时，终于到达所谓的中心百货广场了，里头什么藏族都没有，只有几个十几岁的中学生在嬉戏，几对情侣在细雨中谈情。原来舞蹈表演因为下雨而取消了。
We leave Tar Lamasery after 2 hours. When we get back to the hostel, I tried to take a short nap, but eventually wake up by David. He is excitingly pursuading us to go to watch the Tibetan dance in the City Square, situated "not far away". Though I am very relunctant to walk, I still forced myself to follow, I don't want to miss any good things because of the laziness, haha. We had a quick dinner, and start our long walking journey under light rain for nearly 1 hour. But we can only see some teenagers and lovers playing around the City Square, where are the Tibetans? Oh... the show is cancelled due to rain. Disappointing....


从我夸张的表情里可以看出我走得多累，这里可是高海拔地区叻！
From my exaggerated expression, you can know how tired I am after the long walk!


左图：来到西宁，平日少喝酒的我也开怀畅饮了。右图：超大牛肉面晚餐
Left: My first beer in China! Right: Our dinner, super big beef noodle.

晚上，我们围着元外的电脑看着他去背包旅行的照片，也听着四位刚到的中国男生诉说他们即将开始的旅程。在元外的建议下，我们终于决定让富师傅带我们去青海湖、敦煌、嘉峪关和兰州。包车主要是为了节省经费和时间。
At night, we sits together to appreciate the interesting photos Yuan Wai taken when he goes for backpacking, and listen to the travel plan of another four Chinese guys that just arrived. After short discussion with David and Sam, we decided to hire Guru Fu for the next 5 days to several places we wish to go, so we can save more time and money.

我们也在西凉驿内厅的墙壁上，写下了一句中文留言，和一句半咸不淡的马来文，呵呵~~
Before sleep, we scribble some words in Mandarin and broken Malay, on the wall of Xi Liang Inn Youth Hostel, haha....

中国之旅-西北篇（2/4/2009）

在火车上的早晨，感觉还是昏沉沉。我拿了一罐Tuna鱼和一包Milo去找鹏和嫣，在两个中国人好奇的眼光下吃完早餐。交谈之下才知道原来那位广州老兄要到拉萨去，他还怂恿我们办中国人进去。“你们说得一口流利的普通话，样子像广东人，肯定没问题的！”。不过我们还是没有去，因为什么都没准备，也没有足够的御寒衣物，不想冒这个险。
I wake up after sleeping for long time, but still feel dizzy. I go to find Sam and David, and had my Tuna fish and Milo (chocolate drink) 3 in 1 for breakfast. After some conversation, we found that the Guang Zhou guy is actually heading to Tibet, and he encouraged us to enter as well. "Three of you looks like Chinese from Guang Zhou, and you speak Mandarin fluently, they won't suspect you are foreigners!" But we did not enter Tibet eventually, because we have not prepare the proper attire, the contacts for accomdation and where to visit.

华山的侧面 Side View of Hua Shan

翠绿的油菜花和西安古城 Rape petal and Xi An Ancient City


途中所见的河南/陕西边界风光 Scenery at the border of He Nan and Shan Xi

虽然很冷，还是得装成很enjoy的样子，演技不赖，呵呵~~
Although we feel very cold, but we still need to take a photo showing that we enjoy it!

沿途上，我们看到了各地完全不同的风光。湖南是一片翠绿，偶尔看到小桥流水人家；河南一带则少了河流，但仍然可以看到农作物和油菜花；到了陕西则是一片荒凉，都是黄土高原。这时我们才知道，中国是多么的大~~
We found that in China, the view for different provinces are totally different. In Hu Nan, we can see lots of green grass, small streams, bridges and villages. In He Nan, there are not many rivers, but we still can see plenty of farms and rape petal. But after we passed by Shan Xi, we can only see the loess plateau, full of sands and rocks. By taking the train, we get to know how huge the China is!

两个中国人都很健谈，从天文地理军事社会万象到中国崛起和本身旅途所见所闻，谈了个不亦乐乎。能在中国第一天就遇上这两人，也算是为我们的运气，让我们多了解中国的风土人情。兰州老兄还特地把床位腾出，让我们拍下华山的侧面和西安古城的正面。
The two Chinese are very talkative, they chit-chat many issues from geographical topics, military, society illness, what they see when they travel, and how the people around the world look at the emerge of China. We should be grateful to know them, as they tell us many faces of China and the Chinese culture. The guy from Lan Zhou even let us sit on his bed, just to snap the view of Hua Shan and Xi An ancient city.

午餐，我们下定决心要善待自己，就各自选了一份火车餐，到餐车厢享受去！火车餐没想象中那么难吃，但是很贵。好不容易熬到了6点多，我打了个电话给青海桑珠青旅的虎子，才知道原来他们旅舍赶不及完成装修，床位满了，所以只好把我们介绍给另一间旅舍。
We decided to have a better lunch today, so we ordered the meal and eat at the "restaurant" in train. The food is not as bad as we think, but very expensive! Finally, it is 6pm, so i make a call to Sangzhu Youth Hostel, and found out that the hostel is full! The boss told me that they can't finish the renovation on time, so he introduce us to another youth hostel.

8点我们终于到达了西宁，告别了31个小时的漫长旅途。当我走下火车的刹那，才发觉原来外面的风是那么大、那么冷！本来我们已经有心理准备天气会很冷的，但还是忍不住要大喊：“好冷啊~~~”。据后来旅舍的人说，当时的温度接近零度了。
8pm, we reached Xi Ning after 31 hours of tiring and loooooonnnnng journey. I am so eager to run out the train for fresh air, but end up shivering like hell... Although we know that it will be very cold in Xi Ning, we still feel like screaming, it is soooo colddd! The people in hostel tell us that it is nearly 0 degree that time, phew~~


有趣的标语，连英文都懒得翻译~~晕倒！ What a good translation! Do you understand?

好不容易熬住走出了车站，我急忙去寻找出租车到石坡街去，一问价竟然是30元。当时我知道应该是被砍菜头了，但环顾四周有没有其他的交通工具（都是同一伙 人），加上我们也不知道石坡街有多远，就只好乖乖引项就砍了。路上我假装问司机有没有到青海湖和其他地点，价格如何等，以作为将来的参考，了解一下他们是 怎样砍人的~~（后来才知道，原来这一段路只值7元，果然被宰了）
After walking out from the railway station, i rush to the only pool of taxi drivers, hoping to get a ride to Shi Po street. When the driver told me it cost RMB30, i know that i was being "slaughtered". But it seems like we got no other choices, no other transportation around, and not many people passed by as well, so we have no choice but accept the expensive ride. (Eventually, we find out that the journey actually cost RMB7 only!) I pretend to be innocent and ask about the prices to go to places around Xi Ning, so that we know how much the taxi drivers will charge if they want to cheat you.

鹏、嫣和小强合照。 David, Sam and Xiao Qiang

鹏、嫣和小飞合照。 David, Sam and Xiao Fei

终于轮到我出场了~~~ David, Sam and ME finally~~~

到了石坡街，才知道我们将入住的旅舍叫“西凉驿”，也在进行装修，但我们的房间都很宽敞舒适。老板元外是个北京人，也是个旅游迷兼超级背包客，非常和蔼可亲。我们还认识了老板娘和两位在旅行途中被“劫持”当临时工的小飞（男）和小强（女）。看到我们一脸饥饿相，小飞和小强带了我们到附近吃西宁最出名的美食--烤羊肉！
Finally, we reached the Xi Liang Inn Youth Hostel. Although the hostel is still under renovation, we manage to get a spaceful room. The friendly boss Yuan Wai come from Bei Jing, he is also an enthusiastic backpacker. We get to know his wife and two other travellers Xiao Fei and Xiao Qiang. They are "kidnapped" by the boss to help out temporarily. When we told them we are very hungry, Xiao Fei and Xiao Qiang immediately bring us to the nearest restaurant to have the most famous food in Xi Ning -- toasted mutton!


烤羊肉 Toasted mutton

烤羊杂 The organs of lamp

超级多的面 Noodles, damn a lot!

饿了4个小时的馋相 This is how we look like after starving for 4 hours

据说小飞一餐可以吃5公斤的羊肉，但我们3个吃了半公斤就已经饱了。还有那碗面，吃来吃去都吃不完的，这时才相信，中国人的食量真大！小飞为了“减肥”，眼神尽量不和羊肉串接触，看着我们大快朵颐而猛吞口水，真难为他了，呵呵。小强是位苗族姑娘，失业后就到处旅行去了。
According to Xiao Qiang, Xiao Fei can eat 5kg of mutton in normal meal, but we already very full after eating half kg! Somemore, the noodles is damn alot, now we know that Chinese people do eat a lot compare to us. Xiao Fei said he is "on diet", so he try not to look at the mutton, else he will end up eating all of them, haha.... Xiao Qiang is actually from Miao ethnic group, and she starts travelling after losing her job.

吃完晚餐回旅舍后，发现元外和两个女生用半咸不淡的广东话在交谈，不时还夹杂两个女生发音奇特的普通话，我就好奇的过去看看。嘿，那两位女生原来是香港人，一听说我们会讲广东话，就好像见到久违的亲人一样，叽里呱啦地说了一大堆。原来他们可是憋了好几天的广东话没处说，呵呵~~可惜明天他们就走了，不然还可以结伴同行。听他们和元外错误百出的交谈，简直就像是鸡同鸭讲，真还不知他们怎样沟通的，哈哈！不过我想只要重要的事情没误会，其他的就当作旅途的笑料吧，也不错！
It is indeed a very good dinner! When we reached the hostel, I heard that the boss is speaking broken Cantonese (oops..) with another 2 girls. The two Hong Kong girls are so excited when they know that we speak Cantonese, and start flooding us with what they had experience for past few days. I bet they have not speak with people that understand Cantonese for a long time! Too bad they have to leave by tomorrow, else we can travel together. I was wondering how they communicate with each other since the boss know limited Cantonese, while the Hong Kong girls know limited Mandarin. Haha, as long as the important messages are conveyed, who care!

元外介绍了一位司机给我们，说能带我们到塔尔寺一趟，来回才100元，比我们想象中还便宜！我想真是出门遇贵人了，这个福报可真大！
The boss Yuan Wai introduce us a reliable taxi driver to take us to Tar Lamasery, the whole trip cost only RMB100, which is cheaper than we expect. I think we meet good people this time, thank GOD!

我们的3人间 Our hostel (Big big bed that can sleep one and a half person)

我们在寒冷的西宁度过了在中国的第二个晚上。
We spent our cold night in Xi Ning, which is also the second night in China. Good Night!

西宁伊斯兰妇女的装扮（对不起，我出卖了你~~）Islam lady in Xi Ning? (Sorry David~)

中国之旅-西北篇（1/4/2009）

凌晨2点起身后，我们搭的士到了机场。路上司机跟我们说，到国外旅游最重要是遇到好人和好的司机，这样才会玩得开心又不会被骗。这仿佛在预言着我们之后的种种经历。。。

2am in the morning, we took a taxi to LCCT in a sleeping mode. The taxi driver told us that it will be a great experience if we can meet some good people and honest driver while travelling oversea. We can get to nice places without being cheated. This is like a prophecy on what we are going to experience in coming days...

上飞机前吃早餐 Breakfast before the flight

上飞机前合影 Photo taken before enter the plane

上了飞机后，原本以为可以睡上几个小时，没想到飞机上的报告超级多，吵得我们想真正入睡都不行。就这样，我们迷迷糊糊地到达了广州。

While we are in the plane, we thought that we can have a few hours of good sleep before starting our day in Guang Zhou, but it is not! There are simply too many announcements that come intermittently, making us wake up almost every 15 minutes. Hence, we arrived in Guang Zhou with super tired body.

一下机，领了行李，我们就匆匆忙忙坐了巴士去广州火车站。来到了这个出了名扒手多的车站，我们都格外地小心。这回我可知道什么叫“人山人海”了，我们的车站跟这里比是小巫见大巫。

After alighted from the plane, we take over luggages and rush to the Guang Zhou Train Station in a split second. We are very careful on our belongings when we reach Guang Zhou Train Station, because it is famous of pick pockets! There are simply too many people in here, which i can't even imagine without seeing it by myself.

眼看着去西宁的硬卧座完了，先去兰州再转车又太耗时了，我冒着被鸟的险买下了2张软卧和1张临时有的硬卧。后面排队的两位中国女生还以为我是那里来的富少爷，没想到我手一面付钱心一面淌血~~

The hard-sleeper tickets to go Xi Ning is sold out. If we go Lan Zhou first and get another train to Xi Ning, it will waste a lot of time. So i made a hard decision to buy 2 soft-sleeper (it is damn expensive!!) and 1 hard-sleeper (got it last minute). The two Chinese girls behind me think that i am a very rich guy, but actually my heart is bleeding when i pay the money ~~~

在功夫餐馆吃了一顿又贵又不好吃的早餐后，我们就上火车去了！我睡的是硬卧上铺，一爬上去就懒惰下来了，索性睡个够。傍晚到卧铺厢找嫣和鹏，才发现原来他们睡的地方是个天堂！我们认识了车厢内的另外两个中国人，一个是兰州人，一个是广州人，都很亲切。这一餐我们吃自己带的快熟面。

After having our breakfast (expensive but not delicious) in Kung Fu restaurant nearby, we started our new journey in train. As I am taking the top hard sleeper, I spent so much time to put all my luggage up and arranged a nice post to sleep. It is so cramped! After a good sleep, I meet Sam and David at their soft-sleeper carriage, it is heaven compare to mine! We met the other 2 Chinese in the carriage, one is from Lan Zhou while another from Guang Zhou, both are nice person. We had our instant noodle for dinner today.

火车上第一晚合影 Photo taken during the first night in train


晚上我们尝试在火车停站时下车活动筋骨，却发现天气越往北走就越冷。我本想带着尼采的书在火车上阅读，却不知道何时遗漏在哪一个车厢了。晚上十点，车厢准时熄灯。

The train stopped several times during the night for us to walk out and exercise while waiting for other passengers to come. The weather is getting colder and colder when the train head North. I bring along my book written by Neitzsche, trying to read it. But i couldn't recall where and when i left it. The light is off at 10pm, we are forced to sleep.

中国之旅-西北篇（31/3/2009）

好不容易把工作交代好，一看手表，已经是5点半了！我拖着疲累的身体，用最快的速度冲了凉，转身拿了两个包包就走了。

After finished handling over the all my jobs to colleagues, I look at my handphone and found that it is already 530pm! I rush back home to take a bath in the quickest speed i can, then take the 2 travelling bags and left my house.

开车到了吉隆坡，还是迷路了，电话又不知道为什么一直打不出去，天啊！幸好志鹏及时打了个电话来解救了我。吃了一顿Nasi Kandar后,就到他家做最后准备,然后好好睡一觉。

When i reached Kuala Lumpur, I just found that I've lost my direction to go to David's house. My phone is out of order and can't call out as well! Luckily David called me at this time, then we meet up to have a Nasi Kandar meal nearby. We spent the night with Chie Yen to do final checking on our luggage, then go to sleep!