Wednesday, April 29, 2009

中国之旅-西北篇(12/4/2009)


相信昨晚大家都睡得很香。我和Annike享受了一顿昂贵的早餐后,就会合鹏和嫣走路去九寨沟了。走了不久,突然碰见柜台那位小姐,她说身旁那辆车是晚上我们住的则大叔家的,建议我们把一些行李放进车里减轻负担。
Annike and I had a delicious and expensive breakfast before meeting Sam and David to walk to Jiu Zhai Gou Nature Park. After walking for a few minutes, we meet the receptionist with a car beside her. She told us that the car belongs to Uncle Zhe, since we are going to stay at his house tonight, we can put our luggage into the car first.


购买门票时,我的学生证终于派上用场了,省了50元!九寨沟景点分布成一个Y型,玩九寨沟有两种方法。第一种适合来去匆匆的游客,可以乘坐环保巴士到每个景点下车,参观拍照。基本上这种方法一天就可以把九寨沟游遍了,但是没什么意思。我们选择了第二种方法,第一天坐巴士游览长海景区和原始森林,然后步行到树正沟;第二天则完全步行游览剩余的景区,省下了昂贵的巴士费。
Finally, I can use my student card to get discount for ticket, it save me 50 Yuan! Jiu Zhai Gou is a Y shape park, there are two common ways to visit the park. The first way is to follow the bus that stops at every fixed spots, walk around, take photos, jump to bus again. This is the most efficient way, because you can visit all the spots within one day, but it end up very rush. So we choose the second way, follow bus to Long Lake, Five-colour Lake and Prenival Forest, then walk along the plank road to Shuzheng Stockade for the first day. Second day, we will walk to all other spots, not taking bus anymore.

我们首先跟随巴士到长海景区参观,坐落在Y字的一端,第一站长海就让我叹为观止了!那种气魄和瑰丽,简直让我窒息了!我恨不得周围的旅客都消失了,让我能够宁静的拥有这幅不似人间应有的仙景。
The first spot we visit is Long Lake, located at one end of the Y shape. It is indeed a stunning view! I hope that I can appreciate the view quietly, this is not a scenery that you can see everyday, it is like a heaven!





在长海景区,有很多藏族人(可能是假扮的)在游说旅客穿藏族衣服拍照,然后向你收费。
There are many Tibetans (or maybe not) lobbying tourists to wear their costume and take photos, so they can get money as reward.



接着,我们到五彩池去了。由于现在还是春季和夏季的交接时期,很多景区都还缺水,所以经过上、中、下季节海的时候都只能看到干枯的湖而已。
Next, we visit Five-colour Lake. Since April is in between Spring and Summer, many places still lack of water. Hence, we can only see dry lakes when we passed by the upper, middle and lower seasonal lake.




游览过了长海景区,我们跟随巴士到Y字的另一端日则沟景区去了,大概10分钟我们就到达原始森林了。地图上说有熊猫,但我们却半只都没见到...
After visiting Long Lake Zone, we follow the bus to another end of the Y shape. We spend 10 minutes to reach the Primary Forest Zone. The map says there are pandas, but we never see any of them...




进入森林的时刻让我想起5年前短期出家的经验,那时进入原始森林感觉蛮恐怖的。这里属于不同种类的森林,没有马来西亚的热带雨林那么茂密,却也别有一番宁静的美。看过原始森林,我们选择步行到接下来的几个景点,希望530pm前可以赶到树正寨。
While entering the forest, I recall the memory of entering a primary forest (which is quite scary) while being a novice monk 5 years ago. However, forest in Malaysia is very dense, not like the one we see here. We decided to walk along the plank road to other spots, hopefully we can reach Shu Zheng Stockade by 530pm.



左图:靠近大路的栈道 右图:靠近山区的栈道
Left: Plank road near the main road Right: Plank road that build along the mountain.



沿途我们经过了草海到达天鹅湖,在天鹅湖旁吃午餐。如此醉人的美景,加上新鲜水果和干粮,也算是出门旅游的一种享受吧,哈哈~~
We had our lunch at Swan Lake. Magnificent scenery with fresh food and biscuits, what a good combination, haha~~





过了天鹅湖,就是一连串小湖和大湖,把我们看得口瞪目呆!九寨沟的湖都是清澈见底的,清澈到能够见到湖底树干的地步。最特别的地方是湖的颜色会随着观看角度、时间(阳光赵色角度)和季节改变的!刚刚看到是浅蓝色的湖,走了几分钟回头看又变成青色了,美得笔墨难以形容~~
After we walk pass Swan Lake, there are plenty of medium and small lakes that stun us with their unparalleled beauty! Majority of the lakes in Jiu Zhai Gou are crystal clear, where you can see the trees under water clearly. The most special thing about lakes in Jiu Zhai Gou is that it will change colour if you view it from different angle, if the sun shine on the lake from different angle (different time) or if you visit them on different season! While the lake shows light blue 10 minute ago, it might change to green if you walk further and turn back to see it. Fantastic~~




“清澈见树”的箭竹海 Crystal clear Arrow Bamboo Lake





熊猫海瀑布 Panda Waterfall

在九寨沟步行很过瘾,因为你不知道什么时候会出现一幅让你惊叫的美景,就像我们不知道什么时候生活会出现惊喜一样。我们是不是每天都这样走着走着走着呢?
It is very fun to walk in Jiu Zhai Gou, simply because there is always fabulous scenery that surprise you, and you never know when it will happen. It is just like our life, surprises do happen. In our daily life, are we walking, walking and walking like this as well?









下午4点20分,我们走到了五花海,开始觉得不对劲了。照这样的速度,肯定无法在5点半赶到树正寨。看来我们只好舍弃一些景点,坐巴士回去,明天在折返了。
420pm, we reached Five Flower Lake, it is quite late already. We know we will not be able to finish our journey with this speed, so we decide to take bus back to Shu Zheng Stockade, and visit the remaining spots tomorrow.



美的像假的一样~~ Very beautiful, looks like it is not real~~






走进去看,还可以看到有鱼呢!据说九寨沟的冷水鱼一年才长几公分,所以非常珍贵。
If you walk near the lake, you can see fishes swimming happily! The cold-water-fishes in Jiu Zhai Gou only grow a few centimeters per year.




终于,我们决定上巴士了。路过镜海时,车导告诉我们这就是电影《英雄》的拍摄地之一。由于时间不早了,我决定不下去景点了,明天再过来看吧。
When the bus passed by Mirror Lake, the tour guide told us that this is where they make the film "Hero" (by Jet Lee).


到了树正寨后,我打电话给负责接待我们的则大叔。不久,有个人走过来问我们要不要到藏民家住宿,我婉拒了。他望了我几秒,然后连带羞涩的问,刚才是不是你打电话来?哈哈,原来他就是则大叔!
I called Uncle Zhe to pick us up. While waiting for him, we see a man walking towards us, and ask us whether we need room tonight, but I rejected him. He hesitates for a few seconds, and asked me, are you the one calling me just now? Haha... now only I know he is Uncle Zhe!


这里的藏民分布在九个寨子里,所以这个地方叫九寨沟。据说开放的只有3个寨子,另外6个还没开发成景区,所以我们无法进入参观。我们住的树正寨是其中一个开发了的寨子(另外两个是荷叶寨和则查洼寨,许多藏民都做旅客生意为主。则大叔告诉我们,以前政府允许旅客在沟内住宿,所以生意很好,旺季时还会把60各房子都住满!后来不允许沟内住宿后,藏民的收入大减。我们到了这时才知道沟内是不允许住宿的,呵呵~不过很多旅游书和网站都介绍说要在藏民家住宿,不会有问题的。
There are 9 villages in Jiu Zhai Gou, 3 of them are open to tourists, while the other 6 are still under-develop. Shu Zheng village is one of the village that open for tourists visit, and most of the Tibetans here earn their living from tourism activities. Uncle Zhe told me, previously the government allow tourists to stay inside Jiu Zhai Gou, so they earn a lot. During peak season, his 60 rooms hostel is always full! But now they do not allow people to stay inside anymore, all tourists have to stay at hotels outside Jiu Zhai Gou. Now only we know that it is prohibited to stay over night here, haha.... But since many tourist books recommend it, why not?


安顿好行李后,Annike就建议我们到处走走看看。她看来爱上了旗子,拼命地找寻藏民绘满经文的旗子拍摄。走着走着,突然听到有人在喊我们,要我们快些上巴士离开了。我们对他说我们不走,要在沟内住宿,他“若有所悟”地点了点头离开了。
After settle down in the Tibetan house (looks like a hostel), Annike suggests to walk around. She likes the flags a lot, and keep taking photos of the flags with scriptures written on it. Suddenly, a man shouted at us, asking us to go on the bus and leave. We told him we are not leaving, we are going to stay inside Jiu Zhai Gou. He left after then.

回到则大叔家,我们一面挨饿等待着晚餐的来临,一面思考怎么还不见早上载走我们行李的那位年轻人?我们是不是把行李给错了人?会不会真的摆乌龙了?晚餐终于姗姗来迟,不管那么多,吃了再算!
It is quite late now, but the dinner still not ready yet, so we have no choice but wait. David and I keep wondering, where is the young man that took our luggage this morning? Did we pass to the correct person? Finally, the dinner is ready!

吃饱喝暖,马上觉得倦意来袭了。嫣累得要病倒了,则大叔的女儿赶紧拿了感冒药给她。我和鹏正在房里研究着怎样用电动暖被,嫣突然闯了进来,说她的房里只有一个暖被,能不能把我们的也借过去。为了不让这半个病人真的病倒,我们赶紧把多出的暖被送过去隔壁房。刚坐在床上,才发现原来每间房都有两个暖被的,晕倒~
We feel especially tired after the dinner. Sam nearly fall sick, Uncle Zhe's daughter gave her some medicine. While David and I are investigating how to use the electrical warming blanket, Sam entered our room and asked if we can borrow her one, because there is only one blanket in her room. We quickly detach the one in our room and bring it to her room, end up finding that there is actually 2 electrical warming blankets per room! Poor Sam, she must be too tired to find the second one~~

晚上9点多,要睡觉又太早,玩牌的话有不够人(嫣休息了),我们3人就找了些话题闲聊。Annike走后,我和鹏还在废话连篇。突然他爆出一句:“这里这么豪华,像是藏民的hotel,应该叫藏tel才对!”哇靠,我听了马上晕倒,隔壁房的嫣也大声笑起来,Annike则一脸茫然的瞪着嫣翻译。
9pm, it is too early to sleep, but we do not have enough players for card game as well (Sam is resting on her warm bed), so 3 of us just do some chatting. After Annike left, David and I still talking crap. Suddenly, David says,"This place looks like the hotel of Tibetans, we should call it Zang-tel! (Tibetan is called Zang Zhu in mandarin)" What a joke! Sam was laughing loudly at next room, while Annike looks confused and awaiting Sam for translation.