Monday, April 20, 2009

中国之旅-西北篇(4/4/2009)


西凉驿门前空地 In front of Xi Liang Inn

一大清早,我们就起身享受刷牙的酷刑,然后步行到莫家街用早餐。这一餐吃的是当地著名美食--擀面条。接着,我们就买了一大袋水果给西凉驿的工作人员,小包甜品给富师傅和一些锅贴给自己。
We wake up early in the morning to "enjoy" the tough moment of brushing teeth under freezing weather. Then we walk to Mo Jia Street to have our delicious breakfast. We bought some fruits for the people working in Xi Liang Inn, a small bag of biscuits/cakes for Guru Fu, and some dessert for ourselves.



左:擀面条 右:羊杂汤 Left: Noodles in Xi Ning Right: Organs of lamp in soup

10点钟,富师傅准时到达,我们出发了!临走时,元外还“深情款款”的送我们离开,直到上了车才发现我们竟然忘了跟这么重要的人拍照!我们到兰州火车站把之前买的票退掉后,就开始了这趟美丽又让人期待万分的旅程。青海湖,我来了!
Fu arrived at the hostel at 10am sharply. Before leaving the hostel, Yuan Wai give all of us a warm farewell, but we forget to take picture with him! I am so regret about this. After returning the tickets to Lan Zhou to the railway office, we geared up to the next beautiful and amazing journey. Qing Hai Lake, here we come~~

我们三个都是生平第一次看到下雪,激动的猛拍照!
This is the first time we see snow in our life!

右:是不是好像什么歌手出专辑时拍的海报?Right: This looks like a poster for a singer

在中国的加气站,乘客是必须下车等候司机加气的,奇怪吗?
In China, we have to wait outside the gas station while the driver refill gas, isn't it weird?

富师傅说我们很有福气,因为昨天早上下过了雪,今天应该不会下了,路上的雪景就不美了。没想到今天凌晨还真的再下了一次雪,那待会儿一定看到非常美丽的雪景!我们听了兴奋不已,怎么长得这么大没见过雪景,一下子就让我们看个够了,呵呵。但是好事多磨,车子开了一段路就被收费站的人给截停了,说是前面下过雪,不安全。富师傅为了安全起见,到处打听前面的路段状况,判断能够通行后决定开车继续走。
Fu told us that we are very lucky. Since it is snowing yesterday morning, he expects today to have clear weather since snowing for 2 concecutive days is rarely happen in Xi Ning. If that is the case the scenery will not be that nice. However, this it snows again morning! We are expecting a magnificent view in front now. Well, there is a saying that, good thing does not come smoothly. We were stopped by the officers at a toll gate, they advised us not to take that road as it is very slippery after snowing. Fu is a cautious person, he stopped the car beside the road, and starts to chit chat with drivers coming from the opposite direction to understand the real situation. Finally, he decided to take the risk after listening to feedbacks from a few drivers.

我们被截停在收费站 We were stopped in front of the toll.

由于太阳刚出来,路面上的雪开始融化,形成了一阵阵的水气往上飘,仿佛来到了仙境一般!一路上的雪景实在太美了,让图片告诉你他的魅力吧!
The sun starts to rise, causing the snow to melt. The evaporated water make the scenery looks like a fairy land, wow! Let the photos tell you how fascinating is the scenery!
















知道右边那个人在做什么吗?Do you know what David is doing right now?










右:这就是著名的日月山 Right: This is the famous Ri Yue (Sun and Moon) Mountain

途中,我们经过了著名的日月山和倒淌河。在日月山我们没付任何门票,因为在外面就能够拍到美景了。而且路上的景色也比日月山美多了。
We passed by the famous Ri Yue Mountain and Backstream River, but we never pay for the tickets. We can actually snap a relatively good picture without buying the ticket. Yet, the scenery we have seen on the way is much better than the Ri Yue Mountain.






下午五点左右,我们到达了青海湖,马上就被壮丽的景色给迷住了。由于西宁现在还处在初春的天气,青海湖周边的冰刚刚开始融化。大风把湖中心的冰吹向湖的一面,导致青海湖出现了一边仍然结冰、一边碧波荡漾的美景。
We reach Qing Hai Lake around 5pm, and stun by the magnificent view. Xi Ning is still in the begining of Spring, so the ice at the edges of Qing Hai Lake starts to melt. When the strong wind blow the unmelted ice at the centre to the edge of the lake, we can see one side of the lake is covered by water while another side covered by ice!



青海湖边游说游客骑牦牛拍照的藏民。这当然不是免费的!
Some Tibetans are persuading tourists to ride on their wild yak and take photos. Of course, it will not be free!

富师傅把车开到了一位藏族人的家里,我们今晚就住在这里了!本来我还以为要住帐篷的,没想到现在藏民们的家都是砖头做的,看来政府的确帮助这里的藏人改善生活了。这家的主人叫丹切,为人和蔼,但感觉上有点滑头。富师傅说,中国人有句话:“天不怕地不怕,就怕藏人说汉话!”,因为藏人和汉人旅客接触多后,开始会精打细算,接下来就会像很多鬼点子赚游客的钱,变得一点都不纯朴了。
Fu took us to a Tibetan house beside Qing Hai Lake, we are going to spend our night here! At first, I thought that we need to stay in a Tibetan camp, but end up staying in a brick house! The Chinese government did a good job to improve the living standard of Tibetan here, they all afford to build a more comfortable house now.

The owner of this house is Dan Qie, a friendly and humourous guy. Fu told us that the Chinese are quite worried that more and more Tibetan understand Mandarin, because the Tibetan will start to think various of ways to get money from tourists. It is always easier to get money in this way compared to their traditional way of livestocking. In the end, they will be cunning and money minded.

左:这是丹切家新买的炉子,听说以前是用泥巴糊成的。右:烧水烧饭都是用牛羊粪
Left: Modern stove used in Dan Qie house. Before buying this, they have to build one from clay.
Right: They cook everything without charcoal, they use cow/sheep dunk!

安顿好我们后,丹切和他的夫人捧了一种叫“藏巴”的食物让我们尝尝。糌粑是用青稞草、酥油、奶酪和茶撮合搅拌后形成的食物,热量非常高。要搅拌糌粑可要一点功夫,但志鹏倒是学得很快!我吃了一口就爱上它了!
After settling down, Dan Qie and his wife bring us a type of food called "Zang Ba", which is a high energy food with mixture of barley grass, ghee, cheese and tea. It needs to be mixed evenly first, and this require skills! We are happy that David able to learn it very fast. I fall in love with this food the first time I taste it!

志鹏拌糌粑时的神情 David is enjoy mixing the ingredients of Zang Ba

吃完了糌粑,我们就全副武装到附近的青海“冰湖”游玩去了。
After eating Zang Ba, we are fully equipped, and it is time to visit the "ice lake" beside us!







这只猫很喜欢跟着我 The cat likes to follow me

晚上,丹切家又来了另一批客人,听口音该是来自江南一带的中国游客。吃饱了丹切夫人和女儿精心炮制的晚餐后,我们就围坐在客厅闲聊,听丹切的女儿唱歌。丹切的女儿不但长得好看,还有一副动人的嗓子,她的歌声把所有的人都震慑住了。我想,如果她在草原上唱的话,一定会更动听!接着,我们就各自在附近走动,欣赏青海湖夜景去了。我独自一人走在湖边,感受那让人窒息的宁静。那种孤寂的美,让我深深着迷,恨不得融入整个大自然。宇宙的原始状态该是这样的吧?
Another gang of tourists come at night, probably from the South of China. We had a brilliant dinner prepared by mistress and daughter of Dan Qie. Dan Qie's daughter is very good in singing, her voice is so charming and powerful! I bet her voice will be even charming if she sings in the open field!

I walk along the lake alone after that, trying to feel the beauty of absolute silent in Qing Hai Lake. I am mad about beauty of loneliness and quietness in Qing Hai Lake at night, I hope I can dive into it forever! Is this what we see in the dawn of Universe?


两位勤恳的藏族女子,丹切夫人(左)和女儿(右)。
Two hardworking lady, mistress (left) and daughter (right) of Dan Qie.

晚上,我们4人就躲在热得像炉子一样的房子里睡觉。外头冰天雪地,里头温热如火,这种享受实在是人间天堂!
While it is freezingly cold outside, we sleep in a very warm room with hot stove burning. What a pleasure~~

No comments: