Monday, April 27, 2009

中国之旅-西北篇(10/4/2009)


中午12点,我们到达了江油,李白的故乡。出了火车站,我马上碰上了到中国以来第一次的语言障碍。原来这里的人都说川话,听起来好像把“平上去入”音调都搞乱了似的。结果我在问路的时候,我说的话他们都明白,但他们说的话我都不明白!搞了大半天,我终于弄懂了大概的意思,我们于是搭了巴士到十八队的汽车站。
12 noon, we reached Jiang You, the hometown of a famous poet during Tang Dynasty. When I walked out from the railway station, I am facing problem to understand the local dialect (which is the first time after so many days of travelling!). They can understand what I say, but I can't figure out what they try to tell me... In the end, I manage to get some clues from a lady, then we take a bus to the bus station at 18th-troops.

到了车站,果然如小强之前所说的,只有一轮早上的巴士进入九寨沟。买了车票后,我到附近找了几家旅舍,都不怎么合意,价钱都超出预算。后来看到一间勉强可以住,但是老板娘要价30元,算了吧!转了一个圈回来后,我们决定还是回去火车站附近那间便宜又干净的旅舍。正当我们决定离开时,那位老板娘追了过来,开价15元一个床位,我们马上答应了。呵呵,这是变相砍价吧。
When we reached the bus station, I found out that there is only one bus going in Jiu Zhai Gou everyday, so we got no choice but stay one night in Jiang You. After buying ticket, I try to search around the few hostels nearby, but they are all too expensive. I found one suitable hostel just beside the bus station, but the lady boss offer 30Yuan, which is expensive to our standard. So we decided to go back to the hostel near railway station that offer a cheaper price. In the end, the lady boss say she can offer us 15 Yuan per bed (wow, half the price!), we are happy with the price finally.




这间旅舍是简陋了点,但是还算整洁干净,最重要是靠近汽车站,方便我们明天出发。安顿好行李后,我们到附近唯一的餐馆解决午餐(又是牛肉面!)。由于这一路上吃的不是麻辣就是油腻食物,我的嘴唇都快干裂了,再也吃不下辣的食物了。吃过午饭,我们便在路旁向的士司机询问到陈家坝村的价钱,但每个司机都说地震过后那条路不好走,开价都很贵。后来旅舍老板娘看我们问不出个头绪来,就找来了几个朋友商量。一打听下才知道原来去陈家坝可以搭巴士,她还帮我们截了两辆类似泰国Tut-Tut车的自行车载我们到另一个汽车站。
The hostel is "simple and crude", but still looks comfortable and clean. It is just beside the bus station, so we can wake up late tomorrow without missing the bus, haha. We had our lunch at the only restaurant nearby. I am sick of spicy food, because we have been eating spicy food for many days (no other choices, most of the food in North-West China are spicy), my lips is very dry now.

We try to get a taxi to go to Chen Jia Ba, but found that the taxi fare is simply too expensive. The lady boss is noticed that we are having a hard time trying to get to Chen Jia Ba, so she discuss with her friends and try to help us. Eventually, she manage to find 2 pedicab that looks like Tut-Tut in Thailand, to bring us to another bus station nearby. From there we can take a bus to Chen Jia Ba much cheaper compare to taking a cab!


到了汽车站,我们乘巴士到陈家坝去了!从江油到陈家坝要2个小时车程,而且都是山路,因为要翻过很多山,经过很多河流才到达。一路上我们看到的除了山水外,就是小村集,很多还是临时搭上去的住所,该是受到地震影响的吧。我们还看到路上挂着许多布条,写着“XX城市人民和XX地区人民心连心”、“XX地区人民衷心感谢XX城市协助灾区重建”等标语。路上也看到不少义工的临时住所,有的已经改成临时学校了。这一路上地势那么险峻,要到这些穷乡僻壤赈灾可真不容易,更别说要重建了。
It takes 2 hours for the bus to reach Chen Jia Ba, because we need to pass by many mountains and rivers. Besides that, we also see a lot of small villages along the way. Most of the houses we see are built for temporary usage, so I think this is affected by the earthquake last year. There are many banners hanging all over the villages, it is written that "Citizens from XX city is always with people from XX village", "XX village thank XX city for helping in rebuilding", etc. I think it is a tough job to reconstruct these villages affected by earthquake, it is an uphill task for transportation.

这时,Annike突然拿起相机拍了几张照,然后跟我分享她在北京、平遥和西安旅行时拍的照片。当她讲述她在西安照顾孤儿的经验时,注视着照片的双眼洋溢着母爱,仿佛这些婴孩都是她亲生的。她该是个充满爱心的善良女生吧,这些小孩子能够得到她的爱,也算是一种福报。她告诉我,中国有很多这类身有残疾的孤儿,他们可能终身都得不到关爱,但是很多人却对这种情景视若无睹,这让她感到非常痛心。
Annike bring out her camera and start taking photos. She share with me the photos she had taken during the trip to Bei Jing, Ping Yao and Xi An. When she tries to describe her experience in taking care of the babies in the orphanage, I can see her eyes full of maternal love, as if those kids are her sons and daughters. I think she must be a kind and caring gal, the kinds are lucky to have her. She told me that there are many diable orphanage in China, they might not get any love from the people around for their whole life. She feels very sad about that.



来到陈家坝,才算真正看到了中国的贫富悬殊有多大。在这个称得上穷乡僻壤的地方,经过了地震的摧残后更加贫困了。简陋的房子、鲜有车辆通行的道路、拿着简陋工具劳动的人们,成了陈家坝乡村生活的最佳写照。
Chen Jia Ba is a typical poor village in China, it makes me think of how big is the gap between rich and poor people in china. We can see simple houses, road with very less (or no) car passing by and residents that work with their crude tools in Chen Jia Ba.



到达了陈家坝后,我马上感到有很多异样的眼光看着我和Annike。可能这里很少(或不曾)有西方人来过吧,所以他们看Annike好像看希奇事物似的。陈家坝不大,就只有一条街道,旁边有很多小商店、民居和义工临时住所。那些义工临时住所看来已经没有义工在住了,住的都是当地的人,有的用作小学。
When we walk along the street in Chen Jia Ba, I can feel that many people are looking at Annike and me. It seems like they seldom (or never) see westerner coming to this village before. Chen Jia Ba is a small village with only a main road, some small shop lots along the road, and some temperary settlements of volunteers. It seems like nobody is living in the temporary settlements now, and part of it is used as temporary primary school.

我和Annike走得比较慢,主要是想看得比较仔细,却也因此遇上了两个来自青岛的人。他们俩是青岛市政府的官员,正在监督和汇报陈家坝的灾区重建。原来这一带的地震灾区都是由中国各地城市“领养”的,每个城市领养的城市会负责各自领养区的灾区重建,而青岛负责的正是陈家坝。青岛市政府将在这里建一些公共设施,以及一间全国最先进的小学。他们说世界各地的捐款对灾区重建帮助很大,所以非常欢迎我们来考察重建的工作,还热情地跟我和Annike拍了一张照。我跟Annike开玩笑,不知道明天我们会不会出现在当地报章,说是外国间谍到陈家坝收集中国国家机密,呵呵~~
Annike and I walk slowly along the road, observing the daily activities of the villagers. Suddenly, there are two man approaching us, and they speak English! They are government officers from the Qing Dao city, coming over to observe the rebuilding process of Chen Jia Ba. The rebuilding of the places affected by earthquake last year, is headed by some big cities in China, where each of them will adopt one place to work on. Qing Dao is in charge of rebuilding Chen Jia Ba, and they plan to build some infrastructures including the top primary school in Chen Jia Ba.

They told us that China had received a lot of funds from all over the world since the earth quake, so he welcome us to withness the rebuilding of Chen Jia Ba. He even took a picture of Annike and me. I joke with Annike, maybe we will appear in tomorrow local newspaper, saying that two foreign spies are collecting information in Chen Jia Ba, haha...

陈家坝虽然是个小地方,但是景色却很秀丽,住在这里该是满写意的。虽然说政府通过“城市领养灾区”的方式进行灾区重建,但这只限于公共设施而已。对于民居的重建,政府完全让灾民自生自灭(这是哪两位青岛人说的),这是共产社会吗?Annike告诉我中国政府在处理灾区重建方面对西方社会存有某种敌意,不欢迎西方国家插手。可是经过了将近一年,灾区的重建似乎没有什么起色,为什么当初不接受别人的援助呢?
We found that it is very ridiculous for the China government to help only on rebuilding the public infrastructure. What about the residential area? According the two Qing Dao officers, the people have to build their house by their own. Annike told me that the Chinese government is relunctant to accept any sort of help in rebuilding the places affected by earth quake, especially offers from the western countries. That is why after one year, there is still very little progress.

不用怀疑,车顶上的的确是苍蝇!幸好车开动后苍蝇没有乱飞,否则我真地会抓狂~~
Yes, it is flies all over the roof of the bus! Luckily the flies do not fly all over the bus, else I will really go mad~~

下午5点,我们坐上巴士离开了陈家坝。回到旅舍,我和Annike想洗澡,于是便轮流用那个看起来蛮恐怖又简陋的洗澡间。想不开热水冲凉有太冷了,开了热水有汤死人,结果我只好用最快的速度冲完,免得被烫熟了。轮到Annike时,一半的热水被我用完了,老板娘便敲厕所门要她先把水外面的水加满。结果两个人鸡同鸭讲了半天,老板娘才来向我们求救;原来要安心冲凉都不容易。
5pm, we left Chen Jia Ba. After settle down in the hostel, Annike and I want to take bath, so I be the first one to test out the weird bathroom. The bathroom is "equiped" with hot water supply, but it is either too hot or too cold, so I have to take bath in very fast and efficient way to avoid being cooked by the hot water. While it is Annike turn, half of the hot water is being used, so the lady boss keep nagging Annike to fill up the tank outside before using. Obviously Annike don't understand what she said, the lady boss is so frustrated and finally seek for our help. Well, it is not easy to even take a nice shower, haha...



老兄,你真的需要这样充电吗?
Brother, do you really need to charge your gadgets in this way?

晚餐时候,我提起在大学四年间我是个素食主义者,没想到原来Annike也是半个素食主义者,她不吃肉但吃鱼。晚上,我们开始玩牌,直到大家开始神志不清为止。明天,我们就会到达期待已久的九寨沟了,好期待!
While we are having dinner, I told Annike that I was a vegetarian for 4 years during my University life. Surprisingly, Annike is also a vegetarian, she does not take meat but only fish and vegetables. We start playing card games after dinner, until everyone is very tired. Tomorrow is an important day, because we will reach Jiu Zhai Gou finally!

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